Projects

These liberty hardware kitchen cabinet pulls are giving me all the feels"

Step 1: Remove Old Hardware

I first used my Ryobi Hammer Drill to remove all of my old hardware from my kitchen cabinets. This step went pretty quickly. This can also be done with a screwdriver but any excuse I can have to use my fancy power tools is good for me!

I made sure to put the drill on a low setting to make sure I didn't mess up the existing knobs, I'm sure I will be using these somewhere else.

Step 2: Re-finish Cabinets and Fill Holes

Once I removed all of the hardware I noticed the pulls left some spots on the cabinets so I used some Minwax stain just to refresh the cabinets. I also filled in the pull holes on the drawers with DAP wood filler, since I had to screw new holes.

Putting the stain on the cabinets gave them a fresh new look; with the knobs off this was the perfect opportunity to do so.

Step 3: Drilling New Holes

With the help from my Kreg Cabinet Hardware Jig Kreg sent over I was able to whip these holes out in no time. This jig has adjustable guides for accurate hole placement, it will make you feel like a cabinet wizard and its not super expensive.

Step 4: Add New Knobs

Now on to my favorite part of the process, adding these new knobs! I could tell after the first knob that these were going to give my kitchen a whole new look, and they didn't disappoint.

I am in love with how these Liberty Hardware Cabinet pulls made my kitchen look after switching them out. Check out this before and after.

 

 

I've already had a couple of people notice that I changed them out. I would say that's a hardware success. My previous knobs were a little dull in color so these knobs really made the wood pop!

 

 

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE...

Don't let this DIY Hairpin Coffee Table fool ya, that's a stencil design!

I have seen DIY hairpin legs start to make themselves known and I thought this project would be a great way to dive into a new trend. So I made this DIY hairpin coffee table featuring a tile stencil on top!

Luckily for you guys, I videoed the process! Check it out and be sure to read up on all the details I missed in the video below.

There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure.

I am a huge fan of chalk paint and normally I use Annie Sloan but ever since I used Rustoleum chalk paint on my fireplace, I wanted to try it out on this build and I love it! Even better it's the third of the price of Annie Sloan! Sorry Annie! But Rustoleum is taking the win on this one! I'm excited to see how it holds up! I used the Rust-Oleum Charcoal for the under bottom and the Rust-Oleum Linen White for the top. This was the perfect paint for a stencil because it dries so quickly. Idk if I would have enjoyed this project as much  if I used regular paint.

I have been seeing these Santa Ana Tile Stencil everywhere and since I couldn't use them for my floors, I thought what better to use them on then a piece of furniture! The best part was it was only $9.99! Nothing like a cheap stencil to make my day! I cut the wooden piece down so that I could fit the stencil on there 4 times. The stencil comes in two sizes so depending on the size you can decide the length you want. Mine was 24x36.

This was my first time using a stencil so I definitely learned some good tips for getting a clean finish. Rule # 1 don't put a blob of paint on the brush and expect to get clean lines. IT AINT GONE HAPPEN'.... I would suggest practicing on a scrap piece of wood first to get the hang of it, unless you want to be a brave soul like me and just thug it out. Either way, it wasn't that hard to do. I think a good brush is key, I picked mine up from my local Home Depot. Once I finished stenciling the table top I coated it with Rust-Oleum Clear.

This was my first experience with hairpin legs, as well and I loved using them. They were super easy to incorporate into my DIY hairpin coffee table . Huge shoutout to DIY Hairpin Legs for sending these babies over! I loved that the legs came equipped with screws, I wasn't expecting that at all. It also came with full instructions on how to use them, even though its pretty straight forward. I used Rust-Oleum Flat Black and Rust-Oleum Matte Clear on the hairpin legs and it really made them come to life.

I am so happy with how this build came out. It was my first industrial type build and I couldn't be happier with the outcome. I think we need one last look!

I love that this DIY hairpin coffee table has such a modern feel to it and it only took one afternoon to get it finished! I would love to see your go at this modern hairpin coffee table.

"I received product for this post but all thoughts and opinions are my own."

A DIY Barn Door Coffee Bar never looked so good!

I've seen many DIY coffee bars but I wanted to switch things up a bit. A coffee bar with barn doors was the perfect idea. I have been dying to build some furniture with sliding barn doors and I'm so glad it was a SUCCESS. Even better, I have partnered up with my friends over at RYOBI Nation to give you the step by step tutorial. But first lets drool over this DIY barn door coffee bar.

I was trying to come up with some different DIY coffee bar ideas and I must say my favorite part about this build is HANDS DOWN the metallic finish on the barn door hardware. I haven't seen hardware that comes in this finish, so I decided to create my own!

There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure.

 I used Rust-Oleum Copper and man does this hardware Shine. The copper pipes and the door pulls just brings it all together. But lets talk about this Rust-Oleum Comfort Grip by RustOleum. Makes spray painting so much easier. Pops right on in seconds!

More and more I'm learning that I love hidden storage..and this diy barn door coffee bar center was no different! Behind the barn doors is plenty of storage room for all of my coffee supplies that I don't want everyone to necessarily see! I love making unique pieces for my home and this really makes my kitchen worth talking about!

Just a little inside scoop. I always use select pine from Home Depot when using pine wood. It's a little more expensive than regular pine but its so much better to work with and makes my builds a lot cleaner. I always have a struggle with wanting to paint or stain my furniture after I finish building it. It just looks so pretty the way it is.

No build of mine happens without my beloved  Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System, but one of my other favorite tools is Ryobi's Hammer Drill. There aren't too many Ryobi tools I haven't tried and their hammer drill is definitely in my top 5. Check out my full tool review on the Ryobi 18V Hammer Drill here. These tools really brought this build together. Let's take one last look!

Now head on over to RYOBI NATION for the full tutorial for this DIY coffee bar! But one more thing before you go!

*This post and giveaway is sponsored by Ryobi Power Tools. I have received product and compensation for this post but all opinions, thoughts and designs are my own.

Who doesn't love a farmhouse coffee table with a nice set of turned legs?

These legs are super popular in the woodworking community and I couldn't wait to get my hands on them. Thankfully, my friends over at Build Something are partnering with me to present the plans so you can create your own! Build Something is Kreg Tools plan site where you can find free plans for some awesome DIY furniture.

  

To make sure the legs stayed in place I made sure to use my Bessey GSCC2.524 2.5-Inch x 24-Inch Economy Clutch Style Bar Clamp. These are by far my favorite clamps. Easy to use and they definitely get the job done! I left the clamps on for several hours just to make sure that the legs stay in place over time! You can never be too careful!

So I am sure that I say this very often..but I absolutely love my Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System! It's the one tool that I have used on every project and it makes life so much easier for me. When people ask me which tools are must-haves I always include the kreg jig because it has been one of my favorites! I also have the Kreg DB210 Foreman Pocket-Hole Machine, Blue, which is the kreg jig on steroids but I always still use my little baby.

Another one of my fav products to use is Dap 21506 Plastic Wood Filler, 16-Ounce! Let me tell you I tried almost every type of wood filler before I tried this stuff lol and trust me the process along the way wasn't pretty! Hear me out when I say this is the good stuff! 

First I started out painting the coffee table with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint! I know what your thinking.."that stuff is expensive " and your right it is! But I just love the way it looks after I finished it off with the gel stain. I am sure this technique would work with any other chalk paint but I have only used Annie Sloan. 285140 Rust-Oleum Ultra Matte Interior Chalked Paint 30 oz, Linen White is a little bit cheaper so feel free to try it out with that! (Let me know how it goes.))

Next, after the chalk paint finished drying, I took a cloth and wiped it down with Old Masters 24991 80704 Gel Stain, Dark Walnut, 1 quart Make sure you wipe it on good because if you wipe it on sloppy you will be able to tell, but it gives the coffee table a great rich look. After I finished wiping it down with the gel stain I coated it with Minwax Polycrylic Matte.

and that about wraps it up!

Now what are you waiting for? Head on over to Build Something to check out the free plans!

or Pin it for later!

A Faux Fireplace with a touch of Shiplap, show me more!

I have always been a fan of a cozy fireplace, so this faux fireplace with storage was a no brainer. My home didn't come equipped with a fireplace so I thought; why not make my own? Luckily, my good friends over at Home Depot helped to make my faux fireplace come to life!

"This post is sponsored by The Home Depot. The Home Depot provided me with product and compensation. The opinions I have shared about the products are my own."

   

After building this I thought man, Im not too shabby (humble brag).  Honestly, part of me just wanted to leave it like this...but that wasnt going to happen.

    

Now head on over to the Home Depot Blog to check out how I created this Faux Fireplace with storage.

Happy Building!

I have partnered up with Jennifer with MadisonMadeDecor to give you the how-to on making this awesome end table! Check her out on Instagram and give her Etsy shop a look and then get to building!

Isn't she a beauty?

(There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure)

Dimensions

Materials List

2 - 1 x 10 @ 8ft

2 - 1 x 6 @ 8ft

2 - 1 x 2 @ 8ft

2 - 2' x 4' 3/4" plywood 

1 - 2 x 2 @ 8ft

Everbilt 3/4" in x 48" Aluminum Flat Bar

Cut List

4 - 1 x 10 @ 17.25"

2 - 1 x 6 @ 17.25"

4 - 1 x 2 @ 25.25"

4 - 1 x 2 @ 14.25"

2 - 1 x 10 @ 25.75"

1 - 1 x 6 @ 25.75"

2 - 3/4" plywood - 16.5" x 25.75"

3 - 1 x 6 @ 27.25"

8 - 2 x 2 @ 11.50"

(There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure)

Step 1: Attach the 1x10 ( 17.25") and 1x6 (17.25") to the 1x2 outer trim using wood glue and brad nails.

Step 2: Attach the two 1x2 ( 14.25") trim pieces to the end table sides using wood glue and brad nails.

Step 3: Attach the 1x8 and 1x6 (25.75") back pieces of the crate by using a using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 3/4" setting, with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. 

Step 4: Attach the bottom middle and top pieces to the crate. Attach the middle and bottom piece by using a using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 3/4" setting, with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. Attach the three top pieces using wood glue and brad nails. Attach the two outer pieces first, so that they are flush with the outside and then place the middle piece in.

 Step 5: Add the eight (11.5") 2x2 supports on each side using wood glue and brad nails. Supports should be inset 3" from each side.

Step 6: Cut the Aluminum Bar to fit into the corners of the crate. Measure and then cut with a Dremel 4300 Rotary tool. (Use blade for cutting metal)

Let's take another look at Jennifer's build!

For the finish, Jennifer used one layer of Minwax Special Walnut and one layer of Minwax Classic grey.

 or Pin it for later

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE...

An entryway storage chest you can't help but to love.

This DIY entryway storage chest is the perfect project for your home entryway. The hidden storage gives it the perfect balance of functionality and decorative. Giving entryway storage a whole new name.

I love partnering with fellow builders and today I'm presenting a build by Mandi of HoneySuckle & Sawdust!. She built this cool entryway storage chest and I'm happy to present the 3D plans for her awesome entryway storage chest! Be sure to check her out on Instagram and Facebook!

(There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure)

Dimensions

Materials List

3 - 1x1 @ 8 ft

2 - 1x3 @ 8ft

2 - 1x4 @ 8ft

1 - 1x6 @ 8ft

3 - 2x2s @8ft

1- 3/4" sheet of plywood

2 - 1x2 @ 8ft (optional replacement for 1x1s_ see note below)

Cut List

See Detailed Printable Plans for Cut List 

Step 1: Attach the side chest pieces together using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 3/4" setting, with 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue. Make two of these for both sides of the entryway storage chest.

Note: Use biscuit joinery or add 1/4" plywood to inside to hide pocket holes.

Step 2: Attach the end plywood sheets to the side pieces using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 3/4" setting, with 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue. Add 4 2x2s (7 3/4) to four corners for support. Pocket holes should be made on the inside of both sides of the plywood sheet.

Step 3: Attach the bottom plywood sheet to the assembled chest using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 3/4" setting, with 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue. Pocket holes should be made on the bottom of the plywood sheet.

Step 4: Assemble the two end pieces by attaching the 2x2 side leg braces to the middle leg braces using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System. On the 2x2 uses a 1 1/2" setting with 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws on the 1x1 use a 3/4" setting, with 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue.

Step 5: Assemble the middle piece by attaching the 2x2 side leg braces to the 1x1 middle leg braces using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System. On the 2x2 uses a 1 1/2" setting with 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws on the 1x1 use a 3/4" setting, with 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue.

Step 6: Connect the 3 pieces together by attaching the 1x1 (40") support pieces to the two end pieces using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 3/4" setting, with 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue.. Then screw in (40") support pieces into the middle support leg.

Step 7: Attach the bottom half of the chest to the assembled box with 2" wood screws.

Step 8: Assemble the storage chest top using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 3/4" setting, with 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue, add lid support hinges underneath and then attach to the storage chest by attaching piano hinges to the back. 

Let's take another look at Mandi's awesome build!

Coffee Tables seem to be a very popular build within the woodworking community! So I wanted to round up some of my favorite unique designs. Hope you enjoy!

MODERN COFFEE TABLE - LoveCreateCelebrate

It was love at first sight when I first saw this modern coffee table! Lindi over at LoveCreateCelebrate definitely killed it with this design! and the color is to die for!

Check it Out Here

CHUNKY FARMHOUSE COFFEE TABLE - HillBuildItCreations

I love that this coffee table is so simple to make but still unique. And this staging looks like it's straight out of a magazine.

Free Plans Here

GEOMETRIC WOOD ART TABLE - DIYHUNTRESS

This coffee table is definitely the definition of unique! Sam aka DIYHUNTRESS really did a great job on this one!

Check it Out Here

Oakley Coffee Table - HANDMADE HAVEN

This was one of my favorite coffee table builds. I cant get enough of these turned legs.

Check it out Here

Square Coffee Table - Shanty 2 Chic

I absolutely love this coffee table by Shanty- 2 - Chic! They always put out great stuff and this coffee table doesn't disappoint.

Check it out Here

RECLAIMED WOOD COFFEE TABLE - MYLOVETOCREATE

Check out Mindi's cool coffee table over at MyLovetoCreate. Her design was  made from reclaimed wood. Love the way it looks!

Check it Out Here

Tile Stenciled Hairpin Coffee Table - Handmade Haven

I loved using this tile stencil to create this fun tabletop, and these hairpin legs are to die for!

Check it out Here!

Concrete Paver Outdoor Coffee Table - Ana White

I think it's safe to say that all of Ana White's builds are golden but this coffee table was one of my favorites!

Check it Out Here

Outdoor Convertible Coffee Table/Bench - Industrial_Vibe

What's better than a coffee table? A coffee table that converts into an outdoor bench.

Check it Out Here

Balustrade Coffee Table - Thrifty and Chic

I absolutely love Alicia's version of the Balustrade coffee table. The color on this thing is perfect.

Check it out Here

Hope you Enjoy!

As some of you know, I was chosen to be one of Weaber Lumber’s Winter Brand Reps, and I have enjoyed working with these awesome wall boards Weaber Lumber has provided me. Mainly because they come ready to rock and roll right out of the box.

To purchase some of your own weathered wall boards, CLICK HERE.

Attach the first 28" board and then the last 28" board to ensure you have a perfect rectangle, and then nail the rest of the boards down.

Once the 28" wall boards are nailed down, flip the piece and add the V braces.

Cut the first V wall board at a 35 degree angle, at 27 3/8" from side to side (longest side)

Be sure to make sure the board fits before gluing and nailing it down.

Make the same cut for the other side and you are finished assembling! After the wall piece was assembled I started painting it with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint in Pure White.

I personally loved using these weathered wall boards for this project because the texture of the wall boards gave the wall piece a rustic look without even having to sand it. I did a light first coat and then did a second coat to cover all of the brown.

Feel free to paint as desired, the textured boards will create the rustic look as you paint.

Once I finished painting I let it dry and she was ready to be hung! Or at least after I took this picture! :)

Perfect Wall Art or home decor to fill an empty wall or make a cabinet pop!

This was a totally unexpected build, but I just love how it turned out! I had some left over boards from a project and saw a similar console on Pinterest and just had to re-enact it. Luckily it only took me about 30 min. to build. Doesn't get any better than that! Perfect for the beginner DIYer.

(There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure)

Dimensions

Materials List

1 - 2x10 @ 8ft

1- 2x6 @ 8ft

1- 2x12 @ 10ft

Cut List

2 - 2x10 @ 29 1/4" (10" angle on both sides) cut like a rhombus

1 - 2x6 @ 32 1/2" (10" angle on both sides) cut like a trapezoid

1 - 2x12 @ 46" (10" angle on both sides) cut like a trapezoid

Tools Used:

Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System

Ryobi 18V Brushless Hammer Drill

Ryobi 15-Amp 10 in. Sliding Miter Saw

Bessey Clamps

Step 1: Attach the middle 2x6 brace (32 1/2") to the side 2x10 (29 1/4") leg  using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. The 2x6 should be flush with the top of the side leg and inset 3 3/4" from the front.

I used my Ryobi 15 Amp 12 in. Sliding Miter Saw with Laser to cut the middle 2x6 brace which will be cut at an angle of 10 degrees using the bottom miter scale. The side 2x10 leg will be cut at an angle of 10 degrees by tilting the blade to the desired angle.

After cutting the wood I used my Kreg 3/4 HP Electric Foreman Pocket Hole Machine to make Kreg Holes in my 2x6 and 2x10 board. I put the fence setting in between 3/4" and 1 1/2". I'm not sure how that translates using a regular K4 machine, but I would think that using a 1 1/2" setting would be fine, but again I'm not sure.

I screwed 4 holes on the sides and 8 on the top for attaching the top later. I also put one pocket hole on the two side legs in the back for securing the top. (Picture Below)

Step 2: Attach the other side 2x10 (29 1/4") leg using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. The 2x6 should be flush with the top of the side leg and inset 3 3/4" from the front.

Step 3: Attach the console table top 2x12 (46") using the pre-drilled pocket holes and  2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. I placed my top so that it hangs 1 1/2" from the base. Table top angles will be cut by the tilting the blade.

and ladies and gentlemen! Your done! Time for a finish and some hardware.

 I have been seeing a couple people use Rust-Oleum's Varathane 1 qt. 3X Briarsmoke Premium Wood Stain and I have been dying to get my hands on it! I really love this color.

 Once I finished staining the console I added these industrial pieces I had laying around, I believe I got them from Lowes. Be creative!

Lets check it out again!

A convertible coffee table that doubles as a bench? I can't believe what I'm seeing.

A outdoor convertible table isn't something you see often, so this DIY convertible coffee table caught my attention right away. For all who haven't heard there is an Instagram Builders Challenge hosted on Instagram every so often called the IG Builders challenge.

I participated in it last year and it was super fun. Check out my post here to read about my IG entry in last years challenge.

So what exactly is the IG Builders challenge? There is one plan that is released on a particular date and whoever wants to participate has 3 weeks to complete the build. Modifications and creativity is highly encouraged so long as you can tell that the build was created from the original plan. This year the plan was created by Ana White and she was one of the main judges as well. Here is the plan for  the IGBC3 challenge.

There were some amazing builds that were presented and today I will be sharing the building plans for one of my favorite builds by Shawn (@industrial_vibe). It was no surprise that his build received 2nd runner up in the challenge. That's pretty good being that there were over 130 other builds!

Shawn made his outdoor convertible coffee table bench so that it could be converted into a coffee table!. Now isn't that neat? Thanks to his cool design and my 3D plan magic. You can now build it too.

(There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure)

Dimensions:

Materials List:

8 - 2x4s @ 8ft

1 - 2x2s @ 8ft

Step 1: Attach the top middle 2x4 brace (41") and the bottom middle 2x2 (41") brace to the side 2x4s (16 1/2") using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with  2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue. There should be a 3/4" spacing at the top of the seat back. 

Step 2: Assemble the side arms by attaching the top side 2x4 brace (16 1/2") and the front side 2x4 (5 1/2") brace together using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue. Repeat this step to create two side arms.

Step 3: Attach the bottom side 2x4 brace (15") to finish the side arm  using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue. Repeat this step for both side arms.

Step 4: Attach the two side arms to the top bench back support using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue.

Step 5: Attach the two 1x8 (48") bench seat supports to the top bench using wood screws/brad nails and wood glue. The 1x6 boards will be flush with the outside of the bench.

Step 6: Attach the middle 1x3 (48") bench seat support to the top bench using wood screws/brad nails and wood glue. There should be a spacing of 1/4 of an inch in between boards.

Step 7: Assemble bottom half of the bench by attaching the top middle 2x4 brace (41") and the bottom middle 2x4 (41") brace to the side 2x4s (16 1/2") using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue.The bottom 2x4 should be placed faced down instead of right side up for the bottom bench half. The top should be inset by 3/4" like the top bench.

Step 8 : Assemble the side arms for the bottom half of the bench by attaching the top side 2x4 brace (15") and the front side 2x4 (15") brace to the (17 1/4") 2x4 using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue. Repeat this step to create two side arms.

Step 9: Attach the two side arms to the bottom bench back support using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue.

Step 10: Attach the (41") 2x4 to the existing bottom bench using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue.The 41" 2x4 should be inset 1 1/2" from the outside of the bench.

Step 11: Attach the (9 1/2") 2x4 braces to the existing bottom bench using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws to attach along with wood glue.

Step 12: Attach the (48") 1x8 boards to the bottom bench using wood screws and wood glue.

Step 13: Attach the (48") 1x3 board2 to the bottom bench using wood screws and wood glue. There should be a 1/4" spacing in between boards.

 Step 14: HERE IS MY SPECIAL CHALLENGE!

Use your creativity to create your own design for the backs of your convertible bench! You've got this!

Step 15: Add hardware to combine top and bottom bench together

Lets check out Shawn's Convertible Coffee Table and Bench one last time!

So excited to share the plans for my entry way bench today! Such a fun piece to put in your Entry Way. The best part is you can build this fun piece for only $30 in lumber. You may be able to build it for less if you have some scraps lying around.

I have a SUPER small entry way in my house, but I couldn't deal with it being empty. This little bench fits perfectly in my little entry way space.  

(There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure)

Dimensions

Materials List

2 - 1x6 @ 8ft

1 - 1x4 @ 6ft

2 - 2x4 @ 8ft

2 ½ Pocket Hole Screws

2" Screws

Cut List

2 – 2x4s @ 3ft

2 – 2x4s @ 17 5/8

4 – 2x4s @ 12 3/8"

2 – 1x4 @ 16 ¼"

1- 1x4 @ 26 5/8"

6 – 1x6 @ 28"

Step 1: Attach the (17 5/8") 2x4 leg to the (36") 2x4 leg by screwing the (12 3/8) 2x4 leg to them both using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. Repeat this step so that you have two legs.

Step 2: Attach the (12 3/8") bottom 2x4 braces to the existing legs using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. Do this step for both legs.

Step 3: Add (28") 1x6 legs to the bottom of the chair legs using 2" wood screws and wood glue. The 1x6 should hang off the edge of the legs by a 1/2". The 1st 1x6 should be flush with the back. Leave a 1/8" spacing between boards.

Step 4: Add (28") 1x6 legs to the top of the chair legs using 2" wood screws and wood glue. The 1x6 should hang off the edge of the legs by a 1/2". Leave a 1/8" spacing between boards.

Step 5: Add (16 1/4") 1x4 side braces under the 1x6 boards into the 2x4 legs on both sides using 2" wood screws and wood glue

Step 6: Add (26 5/8") 1x4 front brace under the 1x6 boards into the 2x4 legs  using 2" wood screws and wood glue. 

 and there it goes. Easy entry bench for any spall space in your home.

YOU ALSO MAY LIKE