Projects

"Diablo's metal cutting blade is on the cutting edge."

"This review is sponsored by the Home Depot as a part of The Home Depot's Pro-Spective Campaign."

Diablo has always been a brand that I've highly respected, and I don't foresee that changing anytime soon. Diablo's new steel cutting blade is redefining metal cutting with safer and new innovation and I can't wait to share more about it.

There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure.   

Testing out the Diablo Metal Cutting Blade

To test out the Diablo Steel Demon blade, I am coupling it with my DEWALT circular saw and I must say, they make a great team. One of the items I used to take this blade for a run was a metal flat bar. It cut like butter! Normally I use a jigsaw to make my metal cuts, but I am retiring the jigsaw because this blade can truly cut. 

This particular saw blade features Cermet teeth that provide a high heat tolerance and increased hardness for great cutting life, which allows the blade to last up to 40X longer than a regular carbide metal cutting blade. 

As you can see, the Diablo blade made clean cuts on the metal flat bar. With the advanced laser cut stabilizer vents, it traps noise and vibration for stability, which allows the the blade to remain cool for straight, accurate cuts.

The best part is that they have blades with all sizes and all types of features. So you if you don't have the bigger 7 1/4" circular saw, Diablo has blades to fit your needs.

Shown above is the 6 1/2" Steel Demon Saw blade in the Ryobi Circular saw, and the two 30-Teeth 5 3/8 in saw blade and 5 1/2" saw blade.  

The 6 1/2" Saw blade features trim-metal shock resistant brazing that allows the metal cutting carbide tips to withstand extreme impact. It cut through the metal so easily.

I remember doing some barn door projects and cutting through metal with a jigsaw. It was a complete nightmare. This metal cutting blade makes it so easy.

The 30-Teeth saw blades both have the laser cut stabilizer vents that traps noise and vibration as well as keeping the blade cool.

I actually didn't have this metal bar clamp down, I was holding it with my hadn't and the vibration was minimal, which for me was nice because I don't always like spending the time clamping things down (even though it's probably safer).

FAVORITE FEATURES

Tri-Metal Shock Resistant Brazing

Diablo's tri-metal shock resistant brazing is a three metal brazing system that allows cermet teeth to withstand extreme impact for maximum durability making this blade extremely efficient when cutting through metals.

Versatility of Cuts

I love that this blade has the ability to cut through so many things. I feel like I'm getting a bang for my buck. Check out the last below of what this blade can actually do.

- Cuts 1/16 in. to 1/4 in. wall thickness in steel studs, EMT conduit, angle iron, flat bar, and channel

-  Cuts 1/4 in. to 1 in. diameter threaded rod

- Cuts 1/16 in. to 1/4 in. wall thickness in plate and bar stock

Triple Chip Tooth Design

The Triple Chip Tooth Design provides burr-free finishes that eliminate rework, and allow for a longer cutting life.

Perma-SHIELD Coating

The Perma-SHIELD non-stick coating protects the blade against gumming and corrosion which resists heat build-up.

HOW COULD IT BE BETTER?

This seems to be a great blade but I question how long the blade would actually last after making an excessive amount of cuts.  I am anxious to see how the blade operates under wear and tear.

Get your Diablo Blades today at the Home Depot. 

"Who knew a thin brick wall could look so good."

This thin brick wall project has been quite the popular project and I am so glad to finally be sharing all of the details with you. I am so happy to be partnering up with my friends from Old Mill Brick to bring you this tutorial.

Today I will be sharing all of the fun details on how I completed this thin brick wall project; and I promise you won't be disappointed.

The crazy thing about this project is that I have never worked with brick before! Can you believe it? If you are wondering if you can tackle a project like this, you absolutely can, and I am sharing all of the details to get you started. I originally saw this idea on Remington Avenue's Instagram and knew I had to have it, so let's get into it!

Materiels

• Old Mill Brick - Thin Brick Singles (Castle Gate)
• 3/8" dowel
• Loctite Adhesive
• Sanded Grout - Bright White
• Sanded Grout - Platinum
• 3/8" Trowel
• Bristle Brush
• Grout Bag

Tools Used

• Tile Saw
• Battery Powered Caulk Gun
• Laser Level
• Level
• Angle Finde

If you are more of a visual person, check out this how-to video on my installation process.

Phase 1: Applying the Thin Brick Wall

Step 1: Taking Wall Measurements

Before getting started, I first had to take wall measurements to figure out how many materials I would need to tackle this brick wall project. My wall was 13' high and 10' wide, which is pretty big.

I used this sq. ft calculator to calculate my total square footage. You enter in the width and length of your wall and it will tell you exactly how many square footage of materiel you will need. I ended up getting 19 boxes of the thin brick singles, just to have a little extra for mistakes, but only used 18 of the boxes. 

Once I figured out the sq ft. , I also calculated I would need around 12 packs of Loctite Adhesive for this wall project and my math was perfect; I used all 12 tubes. Normally, you would see people using mortar for brick, but I am always one who likes to work harder and not smarter, so I decided to use this adhesive for an alternative. It's a lot less messier, cures faster, and holds the brick to the wall very well.

Step 2: Prepping the Wall for the Thin Brick

I had to do a little more wall prepping than normal because I had wall paneling on my bedroom wall. I added this paneling to my bedroom wall but I decided to go for something with a little more pizzaz. Let's take a look at the before.

A few people were bummed about me taking down my wall paneling, but I think after they saw the brick, they were just fine with me taking it down. Once I took the wall paneling down, I wiped the whole wall down with a damp rag and then went back and wiped off all of the dust with a dry cloth to make sure the wall was completely free of debris.

Once the wall was all dry, it was time to start applying the bricks; the fun part of the project.

Step 3: Applying Brick to the Wall

I begin applying the thin bricks on the wall and started at the top of the wall and worked my way down. It really doesn't matter where you start with these thin bricks because they aren't building on top of each other. I personally wanted to start at the top so if there were any imperfections or unevenness, it would fall at the bottom.

I decided to start applying the full singles first and then go back afterwards to cut the angles on the bricks. I decided to go with various designs for the wall, so I started laying the bricks straight across first. The first line is probably the most important because it needs to be 100% straight. My bedroom wall isn't all the way square so it was important to make sure the first line was completely level. 

I placed nine rows of bricks on the top of the wall to get me started and used a 3/8" dowel to make sure my spacing was correct. The dowel will definitely be your friend, so have a couple handy. I also used a level to make sure each brick was level. This can seem a little meticulous but I wanted to make sure my bricks looked as flawless as possible. If your first line is straight, the lines below should go on level, but some bricks were still off, so I checked each brick; I know , Im crazy.

I applied a decent amount of adhesive to each brick to make sure it sticks well. I was so impressed with this stuff, it is super strong. As soon as you place the brick on the wall it sticks. You do get around 10 minutes to move it freely before it starts to cure. Make sure you play close attention to your bricks once you place them; I found that after about 30 minutes, there's no budging them. I also found that it was better to apply adhesive to a bunch of bricks and then apply them to the wall rather than doing them one by one. 

Even though this was a one man job, if you can find help, use it. Don't be like me, I would have appreciated a helping hand with this portion.

Now take it from me, if you are doing this project alone or if you have help, you will want to get this battery powered caulk gun. I used a regular caulk gun for the first nine rows and man were my arms on fire! The battery powered gun made it go a lot faster and put less strain on my arm.

After I laid out the nine rows of singles, I switched over to the vertical pattern. This was probably the easiest part of the design. I laid these out pretty quickly and then on to the herringbone.

In order to make sure the herringbone pattern was straight, I used a laser level to make sure the bricks were laid down evenly and on square. This helped the middle portion go a lot faster.

It was interesting to see the pattern once the bricks were all done. I was amazed at how good it looked.

Let's check out the wall pattern once its done.

Phase 2: Grouting the Thin Brick 

Now on to the fun part; the grout. This was my first time grouting, so I was both excited and anxious to see how it would turn out, but I wasn't pleasantly surprised how easy it was. so if you are wondering how to grout thin brick, you're in luck.

Originally, I tried the Antique White, but discovered very quickly that the antique white wasn't the color I was looking for. I decided to try to try two other colors and they both weren't right. After trying those two, I decided to just mix them together and BOOM, I had found the right color for my wall. I did a 50/50 mix of the sanded grout in Bright White and Platinum.

I ended up using four bags for my project; it was just enough, like scrapping the bag enough. I used around six cups of grout each mix to make sure I didn't waste any grout.

I used a small bowl and spoon to mix the grout to the consistency that I wanted and then poured it and then let it sit for 10 minutes. After the ten minutes, I poured it into the grout bag and started to grout the brick. I really loved this grout bag because it was re-usable. I washed it out after every use and it was the perfect size to get my sections knocked out.

Grouting the brick was fairly easy, but time consuming. If you have extra hands available, you will definitely want to use them. One thing you want to make sure you do before grouting is laying down plastic. It will get super messy, so you don't want to mess up your floors.

Once I applied the grout, I used a trowel and a bristle brush to flatten and set the grout into place. It's amazing how the grout really brought out the brick.

I knew this project was going to bring my bedroom to life and there's nothing like a good before and after.

Now let's take one more last look at the wall. Let me know what you think in the comments below. I am absolutely in love!

Welp that wraps up the brick project! I hope you guys are inspired to tackle your own brick projects; I can't wait to see.

As always, thanks for reading guys, XOXO Ashley.

"A Sawhorse Craft Desk to get your supplies in order."

Who doesn't like to get crafty? I'm excited to be sharing this fun crafty desk today and even better, I am partnering with my friends at Build Something to provide you the free plans for this sawhorse desk.

"This post is sponsored by Build Something."

Being that this is a craft desk, I knew I had to do something fun with the legs, so I figured why not create a fun sawhorse design to make it interesting. I absolutely love how they came out!

"There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure."

Dimensions

Materiels List

• 1 - 2x4x8
• 6 - 2x2x6
• 3/4" piece of plywood
• 2 1/2 Pocket Hole Screws
• Wood Glue
• 2" Brad Nails
• Black Spray Paint
• Contact Paper
• 3M Adhesive Spray

Tools Used

• Miter Saw
• Kreg Jig
• Kreg Clamps
• Kreg Adaptive Cutting System
• Drill
• Brad Nailer

Step 1: Create Sawhorse Craft Desk Frame

First I started off with the sawhorse desk frame. You may need to plane down your 2x4s to make sure its straight. Once I had my 2x4s ready, I then used my handy dandy Kreg Jig to drill pocket holes into the sawhorse legs.

I made sure to drill the pocket holes on the inside of the legs to make sure the pocket holes were hidden.

I then attached the legs to the sawhorse using my impact drill and pocket hole screws. I made sure to add four legs to each sawhorse.

To make sure the legs sit straight on the floor, I had to make sure to angle the top and bottom of the legs. Once the legs were attached. I used my right Kreg Clamps to help add in the side pieces. I always rave about these clamps. If you build by yourself often, these clamps come in handy if you use pocket holes often. 

Step 2: Attach Middle Sawhorse Support

Once I got the frame all assembled, I added in the middle support. I attached the middle top support to the outer frame using pocket hole screws and used my right angle clamp here again to hold it into place while I drilled in the pocket hole screws.

I made sure to use a lot of wood glue on the places where I joined the wood together to make sure the desk had extra strength. You can never have enough wood glue!

The sawhorses were super simple to make, I knocked this out in about 30 minutes. If you are a beginner woodworker, this would be a great project for you to try.

Step 4: Cut out Sawhorse Desk Top

Once I had the sawhorses complete, I used my Kreg Adaptive Cutting System to cut the desktop down. I absolutely love this system; if you don't have a table saw this is a great alternative to have to cut down sheet goods.

I cut down a 3/4" piece of plywood for the desktop easily with this system. If you are debating whether to get this tool, let me save you some time, you should definitely invest.

Step 5: Prep and Paint Sawhorse Desk

I opted to go with all black for the legs because I wanted a more modern feel and Im so glad I did. For this particular project, I wanted to try out this COLORSHOT Spray Paint so I decided to coat the legs with it.

It did give it a good coat, but it took quite a bit of spray paint for the legs to look completely black. Next time, I think I may try painting it with a white primer first, but it still would likely equal the same amount of paint.

Another alternative could be using interior paint and a spray painter, either way there are many options to achieve this look, so are your pick.

Step 6: Apply Contact Paper 

For the desk top, I wanted the look of marble but the easy way, so I decided to add contact Paper to the top. I started adding the contact paper to the desktop. One of these rolls covered the desk but I had to cut the last row in half for it to fit.

If you want the second row to be completely seamless, you will likely need to get two of these contact paper rolls. I also decided to add a little 3M Adhesive to the sides for more stick. The adhesive is great on the top of the desk, but the adhesive allowed the contact paper to hold on to the sides a lot better than without.

This contact paper was a super easy way to give a modern marble feel. Once the contact paper was set, I screwed a few screws through the legs to attach the desk and WAA-LAAH, here we have it, a modern DIY Sawhorse Desk.

I can't wait to see you guys tackle this project. If you want to get the free plans for this desk head on over to build something for the free plans.

Click Here for Free Plans at Build Something!

Even better news, if you don't quite love this design, I've built a similar sawhorse desk to this one! If you like the alternative below, you can check that one out here.

But before you go, let's take one last look at this design!

As always, thanks for reading guys, XOXO Ashley.

"This DIY Sawhorse Desk is giving me all the modern feels."

I always love a good desk, so I am super excited to share this new desk I recently built. It's giving me so many good vibes. I have always loved the sawhorse desk trend, but never had the chance to build one, so of course I had to put a fun spin on it, and I am so excited with how it turned out. 

What I really love about this design are the desk legs; Im so in love with this design I can't contain my excitement. If you're looking for a fun desk to spruce up your craft room, look no more! I think you've found the one.

"There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure."

Dimensions

Materiels List

• 1 - 2x4x8
• 8 - 2x2x6
• 3/4" piece of plywood
• 2 1/2 Pocket Hole Screws
• Wood Glue
• 2" Brad Nails
• Black Spray Paint
• Contact Paper
• 3M Adhesive Spray

Cut List

* See Detailed Plans for Cut List

Tools Used

• Miter Saw
• Kreg Jig
• Kreg Clamps
• Kreg Adaptive Cutting System
• Drill
• Brad Nailer

Step 1: Create Sawhorse Desk Frame

First I started off with the sawhorse desk frame. You may need to plane don your 2x4 to make sure its nice and straight. Then I used my handy dandy Kreg Jig to drill pocket holes into the sawhorse legs.

I then attached the legs to the sawhorse using my impact drill and pocket hole screws. I made sure to add four legs to each sawhorse.

To make sure the legs sit straight on the floor, I had to make sure to angle the top and bottom of the legs. Once the legs were attached. I used my right Kreg Clamps to help add in the side pieces.

Step 2: Attach Middle Sawhorse Supports 

Once I got the frame all assembled, I began adding in the middle supports. I attached them to the outer frame using pocket hole screws and used my right angle clamp here again to hold it into place while I drilled in the pocket hole screws.

I added supports to both the top and bottom side supports. I made sure to use a lot of wood glue on the places where I was joined the wood together to make sure the desk has extra strength. You can never have enough wood glue!

Step 3: Attach Decorative Trim

Once the middle supports were all in, I began adding the decorative trim. I used brad nails and wood screws to make sure the supports were secured to the middle supports.

I really love how the trim add a decorative feel to the sawhorse legs. I think it gives it a modern, playful feel. I've seen a lot of sawhorse desk designs, but not one quite like this one.

Step 4: Prep and Paint Sawhorse Desk

I opted to go with all black for the legs because I wanted a more modern feel and Im so glad I did. For this particular project, I wanted to try out this COLORSHOT Spray Paint so I decided to coat the legs with it.

It did give it a good coat, but it took quite a bit of spray paint for the legs to look completely black. Next time, I think I may try painting it with a white primer first, but it still would likely equal the same amount of paint.

Another alternative could be using interior paint and a spray painter, either way there are many options to achieve this look, so are your pick.

Step 5: Apply Contact Paper 

For the desk top, I wanted the look of marble but the easy way, so I decided to add contact Paper to the top. Once I cut out the desk top, I started adding the contact paper to the desktop. One of these rolls covered the desk but I had to cut the last row in half for it to fit.

If you want the second row to be completely seamless, you will likely need to get two of these contact paper rolls. I also decided to add a little 3M Adhesive to the sides for more stick. The adhesive is great on the top of the desk, but the adhesive allowed the contact paper to hold on to the sides a lot better than without.

This contact paper was a super easy way to give a modern marble feel. Once the contact paper was set, I screwed a few screws through the legs to attach the desk and WAA-LAAH, here we have it, a modern DIY Sawhorse Desk.

I can't wait to see you guys tackle this project. Even better news, if you don't quite love this design, I've built a similar craft desk to this one! If you like the alternative below, you can check that one out here.

But before you go, let's take one last look at this design!

As always, thanks for reading guys, XOXO Ashley.

"This DIY Hall Tree Storage Bench is every modern girl's dream."

  

"A modern Coat Rack perfect for the weekend."

I am super excited to share today's project with you because it wasn't necessarily planned, but doesn't that make for the best projects? I had a bunch of scrap wood lying around and needed to get rid of it, so I figured, why not use some of that wood to create a fun project.

Let's just say that I made a good call. This DIY Modern Coat Rack was super fun and easy to make and a great addition to my small entryway. If you're like everyone else right now, you're spending a lot of time at home, so we might as well put our time to good use.

"There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure."   

Materials/Tools

• 3 - 1x2s @ 6"
• 1/4" Dowel
• Coat Hooks
• 1 1/2" Wood Screws
• Drill Bit
• Impact Drill
• Miter Saw

Step 1: Cut Down Wood to Size

First, I used my miter saw to cut all of my wood down to size. I cut my smaller 1x2s down to approximately 8" and I cut my longer 1x2s down to approx. 23".

Feel free to make this coat rack as long as you'd like to fit your needs. I personally think the wall rack would have looked a little better longer, but I had to make it small enough to fit my particular space.

Step 2: Attach 1x2s to Stretchers

Once the wood is all cut down to size, I begin attaching the 1x2s. First, I used a 5/32" bit to drill pilot holes into the two 1x2s.

Once the pilot holes were made, I screwed in the wood screws into the two 1x2s using my impact drill. 

To get the accurate spacing between the two, I used a 1/4" dowel and placed them between the boards while screwing in the wood screws.

Step 3: Attach Coat Hooks

Once the coat rack was complete, I added three coat hooks to finish the look. I used my Dremel Go screwdriver to drive in the screws since they were so small. This tool allows you to drive in screws by just pressing the tool into the screw.

Now let's take another look at the coat rack! I would say this was a successful Scrap DIY?

Let me know what you think in the comments below and as always thanks for reading guys, XOXO Ashley.

"This Ikea Stool Hack is one for the books"  

"This DIY Shoe Cabinet will solve all of your organization problems."

I don't think I've ever been more excited about a project than I am today. I am very happy to be sharing theses DIY shoe cabinet plans with you. I was originally sent a picture of a shoe cabinet and I instantly fell in love. 

I knew it would be a little bit of a challenge without having dimensions to reference, but I was up for the challenge.

Luckily, I went through all of the bumps and bruises to figure it all out so you wouldn't have to. Man was it worth it, this shoe cabinet is every girls dream.

I hope you enjoy this shoe storage just as much as I do. I built a smaller hidden storage shoe cabinet but I outgrew it fast. It held 16 pairs of shoes, but this baby can hold 36 pair of shoes. Now that is what I call an upgrade. Now let's get into the details.

"There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure."

Dimensions

Wood Materials

• 2 - 3/4" piece of plywood (4'x'8)
• 2 - 1/4" piece of plywood (4'x8')
• 4 - 1x12x8 (Select Pine)
• 2 - 1x12x6 (Select Pine)
• 4 - 1x2x6 (Select Pine)
• 4 - 1x3x8 (Select Pine)
• 1 - 1x3x6 (Select Pine)
• 1 - 1x4x8 (Select Pine)

Cut List

See Detailed Plans for Cut List

Materials

• 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
• Hinges
• Gold Cabinet Pulls
• Spackling
• Wood Filler
• Wood Glue 
• Behr Paint - Spiced Potpourri
• Behr Paint - Rugged Tan

Tools Used

• Kreg Adaptive Cutting System
• Kreg Jig
• Jigsaw
• Kreg Right Angle Clamp
• Home Right Paint Sprayer
• Drill
• Kreg Foreman
• Staple Gun
• Brad Nailer
• Sander

Step 1: Cut Wood to Size 

I first started off by cutting the wood I needed to build the main frame of the shoe cabinet down to size. When I purchased my plywood, I got my plywood cut down so that I can manage it better and don't worry I'm sharing all of the measurement details in the printable plans.

Once I got the plywood home, I started cutting the plywood down to the sizes I needed to create the center shoe cabinet frame. I used my Kreg Adaptive Cutting System to cut everything down. If you're not a big fan of the table saw, this is a great alternative tool. It's a track saw, but on a guided track; allowing for ease and precision.

Step 2: Building the Shoe Cabinet Middle Frame

Once all of the plywood was cut down to size, I started building the frame. The first piece I needed to build with was the bottom plywood board. In order to make the board fit, I needed to cut out notches on the sides.

This will make more sense once you go through the shoe cabinet plans. I cut out the notches first by using my Kreg Adaptive Cutting System and then cutting off the end with my jigsaw.

After I cut the notches out of the bottom piece, I created pocket holes all around the board with my Kreg Jig to be able to attach it to the shoe cabinet sides. It should look like the photo below once you're done.

I didn't have any type of dimensions to reference while building this shoe cabinet but I was lucky to find this pantry build that had a similar bottom design tat I wanted, so I was able to use that to get me started. 

Now it's time to get the top main frame assembled. I used my Kreg right angle clamps to help me build the main frame and used pocket hole screws to assemble the frame together.

Once the top part of the center frame was assembled, I started attaching it to the bottom piece. I used my Kreg workbench to help me build this frame; it made it a lot easier to maneuver and this workbench can hold a lot of weight.

After the outer frame was all put together, I added in the top shelf and the center divider using pocket holes and pocket hole screws.

If you're not used to using a Kreg Jig, this project will surely get you acquainted. Theres enough pocket holing to go around. I usually use my Kreg Foreman for projects that require a ton of pocket holes, but a regular Kreg Jig will work just as good, I use my Kreg Jig Master system a ton.

The center frame of your shoe cabinet should look something like the above when you are complete.

Step 3: Adding in the Shoe Shelving 

With the center frame fully assembled, I began building the shoe shelving. The shoe shelves are made up of 3/4" plywood and 1x2 trim. I used pocket holes to secure the trim to the front of the 3/4" backing and used pocket holes on the bottom of the plywood sides to attach it to the shoe cabinet frame.

I decided to slant my shelves to give the shoe cabinet some character but feel free to make your shelves however you like.

I wear a size twelve, so I tested out how my shoe would look with this particular slant and it worked perfect for my size, but you may want a smaller slant or you may want your shelves to be straight. This part is totally up to you, just make sure you adjust your measurements as needed.

One thing to note about these shoe cabinet plans is that these slanted shelves weren't made to fully touch the shoe cabinet backing so there will be a small space behind the shelves once you're done.

If you don't want this space in the back, you will need to cut the back of the shelf at an angle so that it's completely flush with the backside. Again, this is the step where you can customize things how you want it.

Step 4: Adding the Shoe Cabinet Doors

Now on to the fun part. Even though I built this shoe storage on my own, it will be incredibly helpful if you can find help with this part.

I first assembled the outer frame of the doors using pocket holes and pocket hole screws and then attached them using these hinges. You want to make sure you get hinges that allow the door to fully wrap around. I used 1x12 select pine boards to build the doors, but feel free to use plywood here to make your shoe cabinet cheaper.

I started off attaching the doors with three hinges, but I will be adding two more hinges later for extra support for 5 in total on each doors, just waiting on the delivery man for the last two.

One thing to note here is that it's very important to leave enough space between the bottom of the doors and the shoe cabinet center frame so that there is enough room for the doors to freely swing open.

I ran into a little snag with this because I didn't have enough space underneath, but no worries, I will be making the correct changes in the plans so you don't run into the same issue.

These particular hinges should allow your doors to swing fully open and closed with no issues. So be sure to test your doors out after you attach them. The doors may not want to stay completely closed, but we will be attaching a magnetic catch later to help them stay closed.

Step 5: Adding Shoe Shelving to Doors

Once the doors are attached and you feel like they are functioning properly, you can start adding in the shelving. I added in these shelves the same way I adding the shelves to the center frame. I tried to match up the shelving as much as I could to the center frame shelving so that everything looked even.

Once I started adding in the shelving, I noticed that the door dropped slightly, so it may not be a bad idea to add the shelving before you attach the door, but adding the shelves after helped me make sure all of the shelving lined up, so I will leave that up to you.

I added some of my shoes just to see if the weight would affect the door and it didn't seem to affect it much, but adding in the shelves definitely did. If you want to make any changes to the doors, this is where you want to make those changes.

Your shoe cabinet should look a little something like the above and below picture when you are done adding in all of the shelving. This was a really fun build to make and it was exciting to see it take form.

Step 6: Adding Shoe Cabinet Door Fronts

This is the part where we can have a little more fun because we can customize the door fronts to look however we want. I first started off by attaching 1/4" sheets of plywood to the front of the doors using my staple gun. I also had these sheets cut down to size at The Home Depot and then made further cuts later using my Kreg Adaptive Cutting System.

In order to help keep the doors closed while attaching the door fronts, I added in the magnetic latch at the top of the center frame.

I leaned the shoe cabinet on my Kreg workbench to make it easier to apply the 1/4" backing. That workbench is a beast and I have loved using it ever since Kreg sent it to me.

You want to make sure that the 1/4" backing is the exact size of the door and that there is the same amount of space underneath the backing so that it doesn't snag underneath.

This shoe cabinet is giving me all the feels. After adding the 1/4" backing, I added on the outer trim. After going back and forth on designs, as you guys saw on my Instagram stories, I decided to go for a sleek door design. 

I first assembled the outer square of the trim with help from my right angle clamp and then I attached it to the cabinet with wood glue and brad nails, making sure I nailed into the outer parts of the shoe cabinet into the 3/4" boards.

Once the square trim was attached, I went back through and added the horizontal 1x3 trim pieces, also using wood glue and brad nails to attach.

I used 1x3 trim to create this design and attached the trim to the shoe cabinet with my brad nailer

Step 7: Add the Center Frame Backing

Once the door fronts were attached, I added the 1/4" backing to the shoe cabinet center frame using my staple gun and I was finally finished with the building process of the cabinet.

I am so excited with how well this build came out; this was probably one of the more satisfying builds that I've made to date. Now it's time to prep for paint!

Step 8: Prep for Paint

I first started off with filling all of the nail holes with wood filler I also, went around and spackled all of the 3/4" plywood edges and holes I created in the process on the cabinet and caulked the inside edges of the cabinet.

This was one of the main reasons I decided to use common boards instead of plywood on the doors, I knew it would give me a cleaner finish and require less prep work for paint.

Once, the caulk and wood filler was all dry, I sanded the shoe cabinet down really well and then went back through and caulked all of the edges of the cabinet so that I would have really clean lines after painting. I made sure to do the caulking after the sanding because I didn't want dust particles to stick to the caulk.

Step 9: Paint the Shoe Cabinet

After sanding, I started to use my Home Right Paint Sprayer to paint the shoe cabinet. I have used several sprayers over time and I really love this one. Mainly because it's so easy to set up and clean up.

The cleanup process is my least favorite thing, but this sprayer makes it easy. It's also not as expensive as other competitive models.

I decided to share one of my other little tips today. As you can see, I use sandwich bags in the paint container to hold my paint. This allows the cleanup process to go a lot quicker when switching between colors.

They actually make paint liners like this but they are a lot more expensive then sandwich bags and you get about 10 for $5. Sandwich bags come at 150 for a $1, so I guess I'm being a cheap-o. Either way, it works just as great for me.  

Originally, I thought maybe I could paint the whole cabinet pink bu tI quickly realized, that wouldn't be so great. So I decided to go for a two-tone look and I couldn't be more happier with how it turned out.

I usually like my furniture to be sleek and neat but I also have a very bold personality, so this cabinet was the perfect combination of sleek but fun.

I used about 3/4 of a gallon of paint for both colors. I did have to go back and use a roller for touch ups after spraying both colors. Unless you tape the cabinet, it's hard to not get paint on the other color when spraying so closely.

I did about three thin coats of each color and you're going to want to let the paint sit a little bit of time between coats to let it sink in, so you can see which spots need touch ups.

Step 10: Add Cabinet Pulls

The last step in the cabinet process was adding the cabinet pulls. I originally ordered some smaller pulls, but they were way too small for the cabinet, so I ordered some 17" gold cabinet pulls.

Originally, I was going to pace the pulls in the center of the cabinet, but it was really difficult to attach the pulls with the shoe shelves in place, so I had to make sure I placed the pulls in spots where it would be easy to screw in the screw from the back.

Shoe Cabinet Cost Breakdown

I'm sure everyone is wondering how much this baby cost. I spent roughly $550 on this project, which I know isn't super inexpensive but it was surely worth it.

I did utilize select pine for the shoe cabinet doors, which drove up the price quit a bit, so if you're looking for a way to cut costs, be sure to use plywood and regular pine for the cabinet doors and you can save a little over $150.

 Welp, that about wraps it up for the shoe cabinet, I hope these shoe cabinet plans help you create your own cool shoe oasis, but before we go let's take another look at how great the cabinet came out!.

Be sure to check out my Instagram stories under my highlight "shoe cabinet" to see my process of putting this shoe cabinet together and some helpful tips.

I couldn't be happier with the end result, I hope you guys enjoyed it too.

As always, thanks for reading guys.

"This DIY Vanity Desk will make you reconsider all of your other makeup vanity tables."

If you are looking for a solution for your messy makeup problems , man do I have a solution for you. I am a lover of all things makeup, so I wanted to create something that was both stylish and functional, luckily I succeeded at creating this fun DIY Makeup Vanity Desk.

“This post is sponsored by Build Something”

Even better news, I am partnering up with Build Something, Kreg's plan site, to bring you the free plans so you can recreate this unique vanity desk yourself. If you are a little intimidated about this build, don't be, I've got you covered with the step by step instructions. 

 There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure.

But first we must give recognition to this stenciled paint job. I am super proud about pulling this design off. I've seen a few makeup vanities in my day but not one that looks quite like this. I am sharing all of the details below on how I pulled this look off, so keep reading for all of the details.

Now let's get into it!

Dimensions

Materiels

• 5 - 2x2x6
• 1 - 3/4" piece of plywood 
• 2 - 1x6x6
• Priya Bone Stencil
• Chalk Paint - White
• Chalk Paint - Grey
• Chalked Clear Coat
• Gold Spray Paint
• Door Knobs
• Drawer Slides
• 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
• 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws

Tools Used

• Kreg Jig
• Right Angle Clamp
• Miter Saw
• Drill

Step 1: Assemble the Vanity Desk Top

I first started off with creating the top for the makeup vanity desk. I used my Kreg Jig throughout this process to create pocket holes to be able to join my boards together. For the top, you will need to set your Kreg Jig on a 3/4" setting and use 1 1/4" pocket holes screws. 

After I created the pocket holes, I attached the 1x6 back board to the back of the bottom table top with the pocket holes facing forward. The back board should be flush with the end of the bottom desk board.

After, attaching the back 1x6, I attached the two side 1x6s, and the two middle 1x6s using pocket hole screws.

I then cut the top board down to size, but I waited to attach this later to make it easier to attach the drawer slides to the inside of the desk.

Step 2: Assemble the DIY Vanity Base

Once I had the top assembled, I started working on the base. I used 2x2s to create the desk base. I used my Kreg Jig to create pocket holes to join the boards together, but for the base I had to set my jig on a 1 1/2" setting. I used 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to join the boards together.

I used my two right angle clamps to hold the boards together, so I could drive in the pocket hole screws. These clamps really come in handy when you are working alone. Your two desk sides should look a little something like the picture below.

Once I assembled the two desk sides, I was able to start forming the vanity desk base. I also used my Kreg right angle clamps here to hold the boards in place while I drove in pocket hole screws

I made sure to face the pocket holes up for the 2x2s on the top, so they would be hidden by the desk top and I faced the pocket holes down on the 2x2s at the bottom part of the desk base.

Step 3: Add Drawer Slides 

If you are someone who is intimidated by drawer slides, don't be. This step is fairly easy and you should be able to get through this step in no time with the free plans on Build Something. I first started off by adding the drawer slides in between sections.

The first thing I did was inset the drawer slide back 3/4" to account for the drawer face. I marked that line and placed a scrap 1x3 under the drawer slides. The drawer slide will be marked with a L or R, so you will know which slide goes on which side.

Then I sat the drawer slide on top of the 1x3 and then used three screws to screw it into the topside. Just that simple. I then repeated the same steps for the remaining desk sides.

Step 4: Assemble Drawers

Once the drawer slides were in, I began building the drawers. I used 1x3 boards and a 1/4" piece of plywood to build them. I first built the main frame of the drawer using my Kreg Right angle clamp and pocket hole screws.

Once the drawer was assembled, I used my staple gun to attach the 1/4" drawer bottom to the assembled frame. After building the drawers, I attached the second piece of the drawer slide to the bottom of my drawers.

I then slid the drawers right into the drawer slides that were already placed and now we having working drawers; the sweet smell of victory.

Once the drawers were in place, I attached the top piece of the desk top to the remaining top using a countersink bit and wood screws and then set the desk top on top of the base to see how it would look.

Don't you just love when a build starts to form? I know I do.

Step 5: Paint the Base

Since this is going to be a makeup vanity, I figured a gold finish would make it sleek and trendy. I first spray painted the base with two coats of white primer. Once that dried, I sprayed the base with two coats of gold metallic spray paint.

Step 6: Paint the DIY Vanity Desk Top

Next was the really fun part, painting the vanity desk top. Before I started painting, I prepped the desk for paint. I filled in the plywood edges with spackle to make sure I would have a smooth paint finish. After I applied the spackle, I sanded down the desk top and then painted the outside of the vanity desk top with Rustoleum grey chalk paint.

I did two full coats to give it good coverage. Once that was dry, I started adding the Stencil. I was really excited to try this stencil out and I'm so glad my vision was able to come to life. I used the Priya Bone Inlay Stencil to create this design. 

I used a roller brush to roll over the stencil to create this design. My tip would be to make sure you have only a little bit of paint on your roller when stenciling, it creates a cleaner look when you remove the stencil. I also used white chalked paint for the stencil design. 

I went down the whole desk until I filled up the entire desk with the stencil. Once I finished the desk top, I applied the stencil to the three drawer fronts and that completed the desk top design.

Once the drawer fronts were dry, I sprayed the desk with a Chalked Clear Coat and then attached some fancy drawer knobs and the desk was complete. Let's take another look at my DIY Vanity Desk.

I couldn't be happier with how this vanity desk turned out and I hope that your desk is just as amazing.

This stencil couldn't have been a better option to pull off this desk design. Head on over to Build Something to get the free plans, so you can make a desk like this one. I can't wait to see wha you guys come up with.

As always, thanks for reading guy, XOXO Ashley.

So you want to be casted?

I must say, being casted for a reality television show was definitely an exciting experience and I wanted to share some tips on how I got casted. If you ever get a chance to apply again for a show (fingers crossed for Making It Season 3) hopefully some of these do’s and dont’s can help make your dreams come true.

Now I’m no casting expert, so keep that in mind but I’m pretty sure these helpful tips will get you that much closer to TV Stardom.

Keep it on the Low!

Now ladies and gentlemen, I know how exciting it can be to want to tell everybody about applying to a show, but this is a big no no! Most shows are very big on their confidentiality, and sharing that you’ve applied for a show, or are being considered is definitely not a great idea.

You don't want to put your chances in jeopardy because you couldn't hold the tea. If you are interested in a show and are applying, keep it on the hush, hush, it will make announcing the good news that much better.

If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again!

Don’t let your first time applying be your last. I know how frustrating it can be to get rejected, but just because you get a no the first time doesn’t mean you’ll get a no the next time. I can tell you this wasn't my first no for a show, (second or third either) and I actually applied for Making It Season 1 and to be honest, having applied before and having gone through the process multiple times actually prepared me this time around. I had gotten over the initial nervousness of being interviewed and was able to just fully be myself! Don’t get discouraged. Keep at it.

If you've applied before, don't let that keep you from applying again; this just might be your year!

Patience is Key

When applying for a show, it’s obvious that you want to know the outcome of an interview or application. But when you apply, you’re basically playing the waiting game. Sometimes you may not even hear anything back, which is usually the case, but even when I did hear back it was still a wait.

After applying to Making It, I waited a little over two months before I heard anything back and even after that, it was still more waiting. Patience is key in these types of situations. You’re going to want communication and assurance but you likely won’t get it until you’re close to actually filming the show. I probably had about a week before I knew for sure, for sure that it was a done deal, crazy, I know. No need to email and bug the casters, if they want you, trust me, you will hear from them!

Brag on Yourself

I know we are taught to stay humble but this is your chance to brag on yourself a little. Be confident in yourself and what you do. There was a big difference in my first couple of interviews vs. the Making It 2 Interview.

In the first interviews I would say things like “ I think I could do this,” or “I’m kind of new at this, but I’ve built a few things.” But in the second interview I used phrases like “I am confident I can knock this out.” Basically being confident in your responses and presenting yourself in a positive light. The casters want to see that you are confident in your abilities. Your golden, you just have to show them that! 

Be Yourself! 

Now this may seem really obvious, but when your in an exciting, high rush, situation like being casted for a television show, it’s very easy to lose yourself in an interview. Just simply be yourself. I promise, you will feel way better in the end if you are your true genuine self.

Welp that's all the tips I have, hopefully this will help you get that much closer to getting casted on Making It!

Check out the application here! 

Later y'all, thanks for reading.

Official Announcement | Making It Photoshoot | Premiere Party | Episode 1 Recap  | Episode 2 Recap | Episode 3 Recap

"A DIY Wall Coat rack that will brighten up your entryway"

I always love simple DIYs and this coat rack is no different. I wanted to bring you guys a simple project, a little something different from my larger furniture projects that I usually do. So let's dive in.  

Materiels

• 1 - 1x6x6 Select Pine Board
• 1 - 1x3x6 Select Pine Board
• 1 - 5/8" Wooden Dowel
• 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
• ColorShot Spray Paint
• RapidFuse Glue

Tools List

• RYOBI Drill and Impact Driver Combo Kit
• Kreg Jig
• Forstner Bit
• Miter Saw
• Right Angle Clamps

For this particular project, I get to test out my new Ryobi Drill and Impact Driver Combo Kit. It comes packed with the drill driver and impact driver, two batteries, a charger and a bag.

In this particular kit the batteries and charger have been upgraded for overall performance. So let's see how it stood up to the job.

Step 1: Drill Pocket Holes

First, I cut my two select pine boards down to size using my miter saw. I opted to cut my boards down to 39" but feel free to make yours as long as you see fit. Once my boards were cut, I started drilling pocket holes into my 1x6 board using my RYOBI Drill/Driver.

The new drill/driver has 500 in-lbs of torque that gives it power when doing activities such as these. I created pocket holes all along the back of the board and used my Kreg Jig to do so. For this board, I set my jig to a 3/4" setting.

Step 2: Assemble DIY Coat Rack

Next, I joined my boards together using pocket hole screws. I utilized my right angle clamps to hold the boards into place while I used my RYOBI Impact Driver to drill in the screws. 

The Ryobi Impact driver has 1800 in-lbs of torque to deliver increased speed when driving screws. I drilled in the outer pocket hole screws first to hold things into place and then proceeded with the rest of the pocket holes.

Step 3: Drill Dowel Holes

Next, I added the dowel holes. To create the holes, I used my 5/8" forstner bit. Now, you can use your Ryobi Drill/Driver to drill the dowel holes, but I decided to use my RIDGID Octane Hammer Drill instead because it was a lot faster. This baby has a ton of power, and was a better option for this particular task.

I first marked the board in half at 2 3/4" and then marked evenly across the board to make sure my dowels would be evenly placed. I drilled my holes just deep enough so that the top of the Forster bit would be even with the top of the hole.

Step 4: Add Dowels to Coat Rack

Now I did this step third, but later on in the process, I realized that it was probably better to do this step after painting the coat rack. Lesson learned, do this step once your paint is dry.

I used DAP RapidFuse Glue to attach the dowels to the coat rack. I use this glue all the time and I really enjoy using it. It always has a strong hold with whatever I'm applying it to and dries almost instantly.

Step 5: Paint your DIY Coat Rack

Now here is the fun part! Getting to choose a color for your coat rack. I went with something bold and fun, pink! This was also my first time trying out this new spray paint ColorShot.

One thing that I noticed that I really liked was how quickly it dried. I sprayed a thin coat and it quickly dried to touch. This particular color is called Farmer's Daughter. I sprayed several coats and then let it sit to dry.

 Step 6: Style and Enjoy

Once your DIY Coat Rack is all dry, you can style and enjoy. This project was a super simple project that I was able to knock out in a few hours but man does it make a corner space look good. I hope you guys enjoy and I can't wait to see your renditions of this coat rack. But before you go, let's get one last look at mine.

Thanks for reading guys, XOXO Ashley.

"Give your entryway a fresh new look with this DIY Hall Tree Bench."

For those of you who are more visual, I created a quick video of my process building this hall tree. Check it out and then read the steps below.

Step 1: Build Hall Tree Bench Sides

To begin building the bench sides, I first had to cut the notches out of my 1x3s; I did this by using my miter saw. I marked off where I wanted to cut and made the same beveled cut for all four legs of the hall tree bench.

Next, I attached the bench sides to the 1x3 legs using a Kreg Jig on a 3/4" setting. I assembled them together using pocket hole screws and added some wood glue for extra strength. 

I used my new DEWALT Atomic Hammer Drill for this build and it did a great job creating pocket holes and drilling in screws. It features a 2-speed brushless motor and its compact size of  6.8" makes it really lightweight. At 2.5 lbs, it was the perfect drill for a project like this one. The kit comes with two batteries, a charger and a bag.

I inset the hall tree bench sides so that the inside of the bench sides were aligned at the beginning of the notched corner. The pocket holes should be facing inward and the notched side of the bench leg should be facing inward.

Step 2: Assemble Bench Frame

Once the bench sides were assembled, I attached the longer 3/4" plywood boards to the assembled sides using a Kreg Jig on a 3/4" setting and pocket hole screws.

The pocket holes on the top 3/4" board should be facing upward and the pocket holes on the bottom board should be facing down.

Step 3: Add Trim to Hall Tree Bench Frame

Next, I added the trim to the hall tree bench. I used my brad nailer and wood glue to attach the trim to the assembled bench. 

I attached a 1x3 board to the top of the bench and the top back side and used a 3/4" dowel for the bottom front and back trim, as shown above.

Step 4: Attach Bench Top 

With the bench assembled, it was time to add the bench top. I used a project panel to create the hall tree bench top. I first had to cut it down to size using my circular saw.

Then I attached it to the bench using my brad nailer , brad nails and wood glue. The back of the project panel top should be flush with the back of the bench, to ensure the hall tree backing can sit evenly on the back of the hall tree bench.

Step 5: Build Upper Hall Tree Frame

Next, I began building the upper frame of the hall tree by attaching 1x3s together using a Kreg Jig on a 3/4" setting and pocket hole screws. I first created the outer square and then attached the middle 1x3. I made sure to place the mirror down in the frame to make sure there was a snug fit.

Once I assembled the upper frame, I attached it to the bottom bench using the pre-drilled pocket holes and pocket hole screws. Be careful when assembling these two together because the top is a little flimsy without the backing.

Step 6: Attach Hall Tree Bench Backing

Next, I began building the upper frame of the hall tree by attaching 1x3s together using a Kreg Jig on a 3/4" setting and pocket hole screws. I first created the outer square and then attached the middle 1x3. I made sure to place the mirror down in the frame to make sure there was a snug fit.

Once I assembled the upper frame, I attached it to the bottom bench using the pre-drilled pocket holes and pocket hole screws. Be careful when assembling this two together because the top is a little flimsy without the backing.

Step 6: Attach Hall Tree Bench Backing

Next, I attached the 1/4" piece of plywood backing to the assembled hall tree bench. I first applied some glue to the back of the hall tree frame and then clamped the plywood and secured it down with my staple gun.

I decided to place the mirror on the hall tree to make sure it fits and man was I pleased. It came out way better than I expected.

Step 7: Prep and Paint

With the hall tree fully assembled, I began prepping the build for paint. I used wood filler first to fill all of the nail holes and gaps on the project. Once the wood filler was dry, I sanded down the spots were I applied the Dap to smooth out the rough surfaces, then I gave the whole hall tree bench a good sanding.

I painted the hall tree with one good coat of Behr paint and then used some caulk to fill the inner corners of the trim. Once the caulk was dry, I went back and gave the hall tree another good coat.

Step 8: Add Coat Hooks and Mirror

After the paint dried on the hall tree bench, I decided to add the coat hooks.

I first marked where I wanted the coat hooks to be and then drilled pilot holes into the backing. Once the holes were drilled, I used a screwdriver to screw in the coat hooks. I absolutely love these hooks, they are one of my favorite designs.

Once the hooks were added, it was time to add the mirror. This was a pretty easy process. I applied some mirror adhesive to the back of the mirror and clamped the mirror down into place for several hours.

I made sure to put something soft under the clamp to make sure I didn't mess up the mirror. After letting that dry, the hall tree bench was finished!

Now let's take another look at this fabulous hall tree bench, it really looks great in my little entryway. This build was the perfect combination of style, organization and functionality.

I especially love that I have a mirror right by the door for that last mirror check before leaving the house. I hope you guys enjoyed the project. 

As always, thanks for reading, XOXO Ashley.