Projects

So you want to be casted?

I must say, being casted for a reality television show was definitely an exciting experience and I wanted to share some tips on how I got casted. If you ever get a chance to apply again for a show (fingers crossed for Making It Season 3) hopefully some of these do’s and dont’s can help make your dreams come true.

Now I’m no casting expert, so keep that in mind but I’m pretty sure these helpful tips will get you that much closer to TV Stardom.

Keep it on the Low!

Now ladies and gentlemen, I know how exciting it can be to want to tell everybody about applying to a show, but this is a big no no! Most shows are very big on their confidentiality, and sharing that you’ve applied for a show, or are being considered is definitely not a great idea.

You don't want to put your chances in jeopardy because you couldn't hold the tea. If you are interested in a show and are applying, keep it on the hush, hush, it will make announcing the good news that much better.

If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again!

Don’t let your first time applying be your last. I know how frustrating it can be to get rejected, but just because you get a no the first time doesn’t mean you’ll get a no the next time. I can tell you this wasn't my first no for a show, (second or third either) and I actually applied for Making It Season 1 and to be honest, having applied before and having gone through the process multiple times actually prepared me this time around. I had gotten over the initial nervousness of being interviewed and was able to just fully be myself! Don’t get discouraged. Keep at it.

If you've applied before, don't let that keep you from applying again; this just might be your year!

Patience is Key

When applying for a show, it’s obvious that you want to know the outcome of an interview or application. But when you apply, you’re basically playing the waiting game. Sometimes you may not even hear anything back, which is usually the case, but even when I did hear back it was still a wait.

After applying to Making It, I waited a little over two months before I heard anything back and even after that, it was still more waiting. Patience is key in these types of situations. You’re going to want communication and assurance but you likely won’t get it until you’re close to actually filming the show. I probably had about a week before I knew for sure, for sure that it was a done deal, crazy, I know. No need to email and bug the casters, if they want you, trust me, you will hear from them!

Brag on Yourself

I know we are taught to stay humble but this is your chance to brag on yourself a little. Be confident in yourself and what you do. There was a big difference in my first couple of interviews vs. the Making It 2 Interview.

In the first interviews I would say things like “ I think I could do this,” or “I’m kind of new at this, but I’ve built a few things.” But in the second interview I used phrases like “I am confident I can knock this out.” Basically being confident in your responses and presenting yourself in a positive light. The casters want to see that you are confident in your abilities. Your golden, you just have to show them that! 

Be Yourself! 

Now this may seem really obvious, but when your in an exciting, high rush, situation like being casted for a television show, it’s very easy to lose yourself in an interview. Just simply be yourself. I promise, you will feel way better in the end if you are your true genuine self.

Welp that's all the tips I have, hopefully this will help you get that much closer to getting casted on Making It!

Check out the application here! 

Later y'all, thanks for reading.

Official Announcement | Making It Photoshoot | Premiere Party | Episode 1 Recap  | Episode 2 Recap | Episode 3 Recap

"A DIY Wall Coat rack that will brighten up your entryway"

I always love simple DIYs and this coat rack is no different. I wanted to bring you guys a simple project, a little something different from my larger furniture projects that I usually do. So let's dive in.  

Materiels

• 1 - 1x6x6 Select Pine Board
• 1 - 1x3x6 Select Pine Board
• 1 - 5/8" Wooden Dowel
• 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
• ColorShot Spray Paint
• RapidFuse Glue

Tools List

• RYOBI Drill and Impact Driver Combo Kit
• Kreg Jig
• Forstner Bit
• Miter Saw
• Right Angle Clamps

For this particular project, I get to test out my new Ryobi Drill and Impact Driver Combo Kit. It comes packed with the drill driver and impact driver, two batteries, a charger and a bag.

In this particular kit the batteries and charger have been upgraded for overall performance. So let's see how it stood up to the job.

Step 1: Drill Pocket Holes

First, I cut my two select pine boards down to size using my miter saw. I opted to cut my boards down to 39" but feel free to make yours as long as you see fit. Once my boards were cut, I started drilling pocket holes into my 1x6 board using my RYOBI Drill/Driver.

The new drill/driver has 500 in-lbs of torque that gives it power when doing activities such as these. I created pocket holes all along the back of the board and used my Kreg Jig to do so. For this board, I set my jig to a 3/4" setting.

Step 2: Assemble DIY Coat Rack

Next, I joined my boards together using pocket hole screws. I utilized my right angle clamps to hold the boards into place while I used my RYOBI Impact Driver to drill in the screws. 

The Ryobi Impact driver has 1800 in-lbs of torque to deliver increased speed when driving screws. I drilled in the outer pocket hole screws first to hold things into place and then proceeded with the rest of the pocket holes.

Step 3: Drill Dowel Holes

Next, I added the dowel holes. To create the holes, I used my 5/8" forstner bit. Now, you can use your Ryobi Drill/Driver to drill the dowel holes, but I decided to use my RIDGID Octane Hammer Drill instead because it was a lot faster. This baby has a ton of power, and was a better option for this particular task.

I first marked the board in half at 2 3/4" and then marked evenly across the board to make sure my dowels would be evenly placed. I drilled my holes just deep enough so that the top of the Forster bit would be even with the top of the hole.

Step 4: Add Dowels to Coat Rack

Now I did this step third, but later on in the process, I realized that it was probably better to do this step after painting the coat rack. Lesson learned, do this step once your paint is dry.

I used DAP RapidFuse Glue to attach the dowels to the coat rack. I use this glue all the time and I really enjoy using it. It always has a strong hold with whatever I'm applying it to and dries almost instantly.

Step 5: Paint your DIY Coat Rack

Now here is the fun part! Getting to choose a color for your coat rack. I went with something bold and fun, pink! This was also my first time trying out this new spray paint ColorShot.

One thing that I noticed that I really liked was how quickly it dried. I sprayed a thin coat and it quickly dried to touch. This particular color is called Farmer's Daughter. I sprayed several coats and then let it sit to dry.

 Step 6: Style and Enjoy

Once your DIY Coat Rack is all dry, you can style and enjoy. This project was a super simple project that I was able to knock out in a few hours but man does it make a corner space look good. I hope you guys enjoy and I can't wait to see your renditions of this coat rack. But before you go, let's get one last look at mine.

Thanks for reading guys, XOXO Ashley.

"Give your entryway a fresh new look with this DIY Hall Tree Bench."

For those of you who are more visual, I created a quick video of my process building this hall tree. Check it out and then read the steps below.

Step 1: Build Hall Tree Bench Sides

To begin building the bench sides, I first had to cut the notches out of my 1x3s; I did this by using my miter saw. I marked off where I wanted to cut and made the same beveled cut for all four legs of the hall tree bench.

Next, I attached the bench sides to the 1x3 legs using a Kreg Jig on a 3/4" setting. I assembled them together using pocket hole screws and added some wood glue for extra strength. 

I used my new DEWALT Atomic Hammer Drill for this build and it did a great job creating pocket holes and drilling in screws. It features a 2-speed brushless motor and its compact size of  6.8" makes it really lightweight. At 2.5 lbs, it was the perfect drill for a project like this one. The kit comes with two batteries, a charger and a bag.

I inset the hall tree bench sides so that the inside of the bench sides were aligned at the beginning of the notched corner. The pocket holes should be facing inward and the notched side of the bench leg should be facing inward.

Step 2: Assemble Bench Frame

Once the bench sides were assembled, I attached the longer 3/4" plywood boards to the assembled sides using a Kreg Jig on a 3/4" setting and pocket hole screws.

The pocket holes on the top 3/4" board should be facing upward and the pocket holes on the bottom board should be facing down.

Step 3: Add Trim to Hall Tree Bench Frame

Next, I added the trim to the hall tree bench. I used my brad nailer and wood glue to attach the trim to the assembled bench. 

I attached a 1x3 board to the top of the bench and the top back side and used a 3/4" dowel for the bottom front and back trim, as shown above.

Step 4: Attach Bench Top 

With the bench assembled, it was time to add the bench top. I used a project panel to create the hall tree bench top. I first had to cut it down to size using my circular saw.

Then I attached it to the bench using my brad nailer , brad nails and wood glue. The back of the project panel top should be flush with the back of the bench, to ensure the hall tree backing can sit evenly on the back of the hall tree bench.

Step 5: Build Upper Hall Tree Frame

Next, I began building the upper frame of the hall tree by attaching 1x3s together using a Kreg Jig on a 3/4" setting and pocket hole screws. I first created the outer square and then attached the middle 1x3. I made sure to place the mirror down in the frame to make sure there was a snug fit.

Once I assembled the upper frame, I attached it to the bottom bench using the pre-drilled pocket holes and pocket hole screws. Be careful when assembling these two together because the top is a little flimsy without the backing.

Step 6: Attach Hall Tree Bench Backing

Next, I began building the upper frame of the hall tree by attaching 1x3s together using a Kreg Jig on a 3/4" setting and pocket hole screws. I first created the outer square and then attached the middle 1x3. I made sure to place the mirror down in the frame to make sure there was a snug fit.

Once I assembled the upper frame, I attached it to the bottom bench using the pre-drilled pocket holes and pocket hole screws. Be careful when assembling this two together because the top is a little flimsy without the backing.

Step 6: Attach Hall Tree Bench Backing

Next, I attached the 1/4" piece of plywood backing to the assembled hall tree bench. I first applied some glue to the back of the hall tree frame and then clamped the plywood and secured it down with my staple gun.

I decided to place the mirror on the hall tree to make sure it fits and man was I pleased. It came out way better than I expected.

Step 7: Prep and Paint

With the hall tree fully assembled, I began prepping the build for paint. I used wood filler first to fill all of the nail holes and gaps on the project. Once the wood filler was dry, I sanded down the spots were I applied the Dap to smooth out the rough surfaces, then I gave the whole hall tree bench a good sanding.

I painted the hall tree with one good coat of Behr paint and then used some caulk to fill the inner corners of the trim. Once the caulk was dry, I went back and gave the hall tree another good coat.

Step 8: Add Coat Hooks and Mirror

After the paint dried on the hall tree bench, I decided to add the coat hooks.

I first marked where I wanted the coat hooks to be and then drilled pilot holes into the backing. Once the holes were drilled, I used a screwdriver to screw in the coat hooks. I absolutely love these hooks, they are one of my favorite designs.

Once the hooks were added, it was time to add the mirror. This was a pretty easy process. I applied some mirror adhesive to the back of the mirror and clamped the mirror down into place for several hours.

I made sure to put something soft under the clamp to make sure I didn't mess up the mirror. After letting that dry, the hall tree bench was finished!

Now let's take another look at this fabulous hall tree bench, it really looks great in my little entryway. This build was the perfect combination of style, organization and functionality.

I especially love that I have a mirror right by the door for that last mirror check before leaving the house. I hope you guys enjoyed the project. 

As always, thanks for reading, XOXO Ashley.

"Who knew a DIY Desk could look so good"

A-Frame Desk

Who doesn't love a simplistic DIY Desk? This A-Frame Desk gives a unique style to the office with its featured A-Frame braces and for less than $100, I would say that this desk is an office win. Tutorial for the A-Frame Desk here.

L Shaped Double X Desk

L shaped Desks seem to be making a splash in the desk world and this L Shaped Double X Desk is no different. If you're looking for a home office desk with a little more space, than you've come to the right place. This DIY Desk will surely change the feel of your office space. Plans for the L Shaped Desk here.

Farmhouse X Desk

Who doesn't love the ole' farmhouse feel? This computer desk is a simplistic way to bring a little farmhouse to your home and with lumber under $80, you can't beat it. Plans for Farmhouse X Desk here.

Concrete Desk

If normal is not your style, you may be intrigued by this concrete desk. This modern style desk is sure to turn heads with its unique concrete top and modern style legs. If you're looking for different, I think I've found something you may like. Your home office will love you for it. Tutorial for Concrete Desk Here.

Floating DIY Desk

If you are more of a space saver, you have to check out this Floating Desk from Erin Spain Blog. She used frog tape to make a unique design on her floating desk. Something simple and functional to make your home office look super stylish. Check out the tutorial here at Erin Spain Blog.

DIY Kids House Frame Desk

With all this talk of DIY Desks, we can't forget about the kids! If you want to get your kids in the working mood, be sure to give them something fun to work on. This DIY House Frame Kid's desk will give your kids the motivation they need to get the work done. Tutorial for House Frame Kid's Desk here.

Kid's Plywood Desk

If you're looking for a more modern kid option, than fear not, I have come to your rescue. This Kid's Plywood Desk from Erin Spain blog is another great option for your kid's who are more simplistic. With a mix of metal and plywood, this Kids DIY Desk will surely make your kids smile. Tutorial for Kid's Plywood Desk here.

Rustic Modern Writing Desk

This Rustic Modern Writing Desk will give your home office that rustic feel you've been looking for. A great project for beginner builders and a fun and cheap way to make your office look stylish and fun. Tutorial for Rustic Modern Writing Desk here.

DIY Workbench Inspired Desk

If you're looking for a more rugged look; check out this Workbench inspired desk. If you have a craft room or need something more manly, this is the desk for you. Check out the tutorial here at Jaime Costiglio Blog.

DIY Floating Desk with Hidden Storage

If hidden storage is your thing, you're going to love this one. DIY Huntress decided to create a floating shelf with hidden storage and I am loving it. A simple way to update that awkward nook space in your home. Check out the tutorial here.

That wraps up the DIY Desks roundup. Hopefully, you've been inspired by these amazing builds to be able to create your own DIY Desk for your home office. 

Thanks for reading guys, XOXO Ashley.

"A Photo Backdrop all your friends will love"

I am in full celebration mode after announcing my appearance on NBC's show Making It. I decided to have a viewing party with all of my fam and friends and I knew it wouldn't be a good party without a fun backdrop, so I decided to create this Kate Spade Photo Backdrop.

With me being a DIYer, of course I had to make it myself, so today. I'm sharing all the details on how to re-create this fun backdrop.

Materiels

Backdrop

• 2 - 1/4" sheet of MDF (4x8)
• 9 - 2x4x96"
• Behr Paint (Flat Black)
• Behr Paint (Ultra Pure White)
• Spax Construction Screws
• Frog Tape
• Paint Roller 

Flowers 

• Cardstock Paper
• Cake Rounds

Tools Used

• Drill
• Framing Nailer
• Miter Saw
• Staple Gun
• Hot Glue Gun
• Scissors
• Cricut
• Paint Sprayer

Now let's get into how I made the Kate Spade photo backdrop.

Step 1: Paint the MDF White

To get the backdrop started, I first painted the MDF boards white. I first painted the board Behr Ultra Pure White and I used my paint sprayer to make the process go a little faster.

When I'm using my paint sprayer, I always like to keep a foam brush handy for any spatter, but for the most part this was a petty simple step.

Once the boards were all painted, I let them sit for about 5 hours. Normally, paint drys a little faster than that, but because I knew I would be putting tape on the boards, I wanted to make sure it was really dry.

Step 2: Mark off Lines and Paint

After the boards were all dry, I started marking off the lines with frog tape. Whenever I am wanting straight lines when painting, I always use frog tape. I haven't been able to find a product that gives as straight as a line as it does, so I highly recommend it.

This step will be a lot easier with two people. I marked the size of the line I wanted and then put the tape down accordingly. My strips were about 5" wide.

Once the lines were all taped off, I went around with a paint roller to roll the black on. I used Behr Flat Black for this. The taping is probably the mot tedious of the project, once you get past that, your good to go.

Step 3: Assemble Stand

Once I finished painting those boards, I put them aside to let them dry and begin assembling the backdrop stands.

I used 2x4 boards to create the backdrop stands. I first made a square out of the 2x4s. I wanted to square to be big enough to give good support but didn't want it on the edge. The outer square was made up of two 90" vertical pieces and three 39" horizontal pieces and I attached them together using a framing nailer and nails. 

I then added the back brace piece. I cut an angle on the bottom of the two outer pieces at 30 degrees and then cut the part that attaches to the square based on how I wanted the stand to sit. I used screws to screw the back piece on to the square and then added an extra 2x4 to screw to both the back piece and the square to make sure there was no movement.

Step 4: Attach MDF to Stands

After assembling the stands, I started to attach the MDF boards. I used a staple gun to add the MDF board to the stands. You want to make sure you make both stands first and then add the boards, so you can put the board beside each other to make sure it looks seamless when it comes together.

Also, make sure you paint he stripes in such a way that you have a white strip on the inside of the right board and a black stripe on the inside of the left board so it will look even.

and WAA-LAAH now we have two backdrops! The best part is I paid a little under $120 to get these backdrops done which I'm counting as a win.

With the backdrop complete, now it's time to get into how I made the paper flowers.

Step 5: Creating the Flowers

This was my first time making paper flowers but the process was fairly simple. Although these flowers were easy to make, it was a little time consuming. If you can find help to get this done, I would highly recommend it.

I used this online tutorial to make these flowers and it worked out pretty well for me. To attach the cake boards to the backdrop, I used Command double sided tape. I also used hot glue for some of them, but if you do this you may end up messing up your back drop a bit. I didn't plan on using this again so it was fine for me, but if you do plan to use it again, I would go with the double sided tape.

Step 6: Enjoy

Once the flowers are made, the last step is to set it up at your event and enjoy!

Read all about the party here. If you're wondering why I had two backdrops, here's why! I decided to have the same backdrop for the dessert table. Luckily, I grabbed a quick photo during set up.

Thanks for reading guys, XOXO Ashley 

"Best Friends"

Faster Craft

For the faster craft we were challenged to team up into twos and make a matching costume. This challenge was definitely a fun one.

Since Floyd and I are two people who work heavily with tools, we thought it would be a fun idea to dress up as a jigsaw and a pack of jigsaw blades.I think it was a fun element that we actually used the tools that we were making. Let's take a look at the other cool costumes.

Floyd and I especially loved Lilly and Rebecca's Llama so we had to test it out.

This challenge was probably the most fun one. Check out the clip to see all of the cool costumes in action.

Master Craft

For the master craft we were challenged to make an animal house for an animal we have or would have. I personally don't have any pets but I decided to make a dog house. 

I wanted to do a more modern style dog house for a german Shepard. So I decided to keep it pretty simple for the finishes.

Although Dana and Simon didn't think it brought much wow factor, I thought me building a big dog house for a timed challenged was wow enough for me! You be the judge.

Let's see the other amazing animal houses.

Judging

Back to judging we go for the 5th/6th time. Jessie and Justine were able to snag a win for the couple's costume. They're sushi costumes really resonated with the judges.

Jessie ended up being the winner for the animal house master craft. Her use of optical illusion impressed the judges.

Unfortunately, this was my time to go. That's right, I was eliminated on the third episode, but I was extremely proud of what I was able to build and accomplish on the show.

So no sad faces here, I stayed true to myself throughout my time on the show and as long as I inspired one person throughout this journey, Im happy with the outcome. You haven't seen the last of me!

I am super grateful to have the opportunity to meet nine other amazing makers who I know get to call friends.

That wraps up all the details for episode 3. Thanks for reading guys!

Official Announcement | Making It Photoshoot | Premiere Party | Episode 1 Recap | Episode 2 Recap |  Casting Tips

" A DIY Desk perfect for the home office"

"This post is sponsored by The Home Depot."

I have been putting off building me a desk for some time now, but I finally got around to it. I have been using my kitchen table as my desk in the meantime and I am so glad to be getting out of the kitchen.  

I had been looking around for designs for a while and saw this cool design online and just had to re-enact it. Lucky for you, I am sharing these farmhouse desk plans with  step-by-step instructions on how to build it.

Now let's get into the nitty gritty!

"There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure."

Dimensions

Materials

• 2 - 2x2x6 (Select Pine)
• 2 - 1x4x8 (Select Pine)
• 1 - 1x3x6 (Select Pine)
• 1 - 1x3x8 (Select Pine)
• 1 - 1x2x8 (Select Pine)
• 24 x 48 Project Panel
• 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
• Wood Glue
• Varathane Stain

"See Detailed Plans for Cut List"

Tools Used

• DEWALT Atomic Hammer Drill/Impact Combo Kit
• Kreg Jig
• Kreg Right Angle Clamps
• Miter Saw

Step 1: Assemble the Desk Sides

The best part about this build was getting to try out my new DEWALT Atomic 20-Volt Hammer Drill/Impact Combo Kit. I love that it comes with this heavy duty ToughSystem Case.

The case comes packed with a compact impact drill and hammer drill, both 20V brushless tools. 

I first used the DEWALT Hammer Drill to drill the pocket holes into the sides of the DIY Desk. I used my Kreg Jig on a 3/4" setting.

After drilling my pocket holes, I attached the middle stretcher pieces to the outer 2x2s using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and wood glue. Your two desk sides should look something like the following when you're finished. 

The top stretcher should be a 1x4 and the bottom stretcher should be a 1x3.

Step 2: Attach V Braces

Next was the fun part, adding the decorative V braces. I first made my bottom angled cut and then placed my 1x2 underneath my assembled side and marked my board where I should make the second cut. 

Always measure before you cut for the best fit. I did this for both sides.

Then I used my Kreg Jig on a 3/4" setting to drill pocket holes into the V braces and attached them to the assembled sides using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Your assembled sides should look like this once you attach your decorative V braces. 

Step 3: Attach Stretchers

Next, I attached the two assembled sides together by attaching the two stretcher pieces. The top stretcher piece is a 1x4 and the bottom stretcher is 1x3.

I used my Kreg Right Angle Clamps to secure the stretcher pieces so I could screw them into the sides. I used the 1 1/4" pocket hole screws along with wood glue to secure the stretchers into place.

Step 4: Add Back V Braces

Once the stretchers were in place, I used the same technique to measure the back V braces and attached them using a 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Drilling pocket holes on slanted boards can be a little tricky, so just be mindful of where you are drilling your holes.

Step 5: Add Desk Front

Now for all of you who thought I had a drawer on this desk, I hate to inform you that this is a faux drawer. Yes, I was being lazy; but luckily for you guys I have added extra steps in the printable plans for those of you who want to add in a drawer. Redemption!

To create my faux drawer, I set the depth on my miter saw to a specific depth so that it would only cut a little above midway on the board. This step was super simple. Then I added a drawer handle to the front, to give the illusion of a drawer.

Once I added the handle, I attached the desk front to the assembled desk using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws along with wood glue.

My Kreg Right Angle Clamps always come in handy. If you are a builder that works alone, I highly recommend these for building.

Step 6: Attach Middle Supports and Top

Lastly, I attached the middle supports to the assembled desk. I made sure to pre-drill holes on the top of the middle supports to be able to secure the top to the desk.

Once I attached the middle supports, I used my circular saw to cut the 24x48 project panel down to size and attached it to the desk using the pre-drilled pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and this beauty is finished.

once I finished building the desk, I went back through and filled in all the pocket holes to give it a seamless look. Check out my tutorial on filling pocket holes to see how I got the job done. Be sure to check out the farmhouse desk plans for all the measurements.

"A DIY Console Table perfect for your entryway"

I think I've said this several times, but consoles are one of my favorite things to build. It's probably one of the things I've built the most, so it's only right that I bring you a new design today. 

"This post is sponsored by the Home Depot"

This design was one I really loved so I decided to make a matching side table along with it. Be sure to go check that out next here.

"There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure."  

Now let's get to it!

Dimensions

Materiels

• 8 - 2x2x6'
• Project Panel - 15.75" x 48" (Actual Width - 15 7/8" x 48")
• 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
• Wood Glue
• Brad Nails
• Varathane Stain
• DAP Wood Filler

*See Detailed Plans for Cut List*

Tools Used

• Cordless Miter Saw
• Circular Saw
• Drill and Impact Driver
• Kreg Jig
• Kreg Right Angle Clamp 
• Brad Nailer

STEP 1: ASSEMBLE CONSOLE TABLE SIDES

The first step was cutting all the wood to size. I used my Cordless 10 in. Miter Saw to cut all of my 2x2s and it worked wonders. The best part about this saw is that its cordless. I don't have to worry about plugging it in which for me is a HUGE DEAL, because I have limited outlets in my shop.

It delivers up to 400 cuts per charge and features dual bevel with nine detents and and easy access bevel lever. Check out this quick setup video for my new Milwaukee Cordless Miter Saw.

Once the wood was all cut down for the console table sides, I clamped the side 2x2s together with my Kreg Right Angle Clamp and then attached the pieces together using a Kreg Jig on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

The pocket holes should be  facing down on the bottom stretcher and facing up for the top stretcher so they are hidden.

STEP 2: ATTACH CONSOLE TABLE SIDES 

Once the two console table sides were assembled, I attached the middle stretchers using a Kreg Jig on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Once I attached one of the stretchers, I turned the console on its side to make it easier to attach the stretcher pieces. My  Kreg Right Angle Clamp always comes in handy with the assist.

STEP 3: ATTACH V BRACES

In order to cut the V braces for the console table, I first measured my 2x2 against the console and made markings on where to cut, I then adjusted my miter angle on my cordless Miter Saw to 35 degrees and then cut both ends of the 2x2.

After cutting the V braces, I attached them to the assembled side table using my Milwaukee Brad Nailer. I nailed down the brad nails through the top and bottom into the v braces to secure it into place.

Then I added the additional top stretcher pieces to the console  using a Kreg Jig on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

STEP 4: ATTACH CONSOLE TABLE TOP

Once the console was built, I attached top to the assembled base using mybrad nailer and 2" brad nails. 

STEP 5: PREP, PAINT AND STAIN

Once the console table was all finished, I filled the nail holes with wood filler and then sanded her down. I painted the bottom of the side table black and the top I stained with Varathane Stain and I absolutely love the color combination.

and that's that. Let's take another look.

This fun easy console was the perfect addition to my wall. 

"A simplistic modern side table perfect for the living room" 

I love all things simplistic, so I decided to create this fun modern DIY side table for my living room and I love how it turned out. A year or so ago, I transformed my living room wall with some triangular patterns and this side table was the perfect addition to go along with it.

"This post is sponsored by the Home Depot"

Lucky for you, I am sharing all of the details on the blog today and I've got some even better news. I loved this design so much that I decided to create the same design on a bigger console and I have a tutorial for that too here. 

There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure.  

Now let's get to it!

Dimensions

Materiels 

• 5 - 2x2x6'
• Project Panel - 19.75" x 48"
• 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
• Wood Glue
• Brad Nails
• Varathane Stain
• DAP Wood Filler

*See Detailed Plans for Cut List*

Tools Used

• Cordless Miter Saw
• Circular Saw
• Drill and Impact Driver
• Kreg Jig
• Kreg Right Angle Clamp 
• Brad Nailer

Step 1: Assemble Side Table Sides

The first thing I did was cut all of the wood down to size. I used my Cordless 10 in. Miter Saw to cut all of my 2x2s and it worked wonders. It delivers up to 400 cuts per charge and features dual bevel with nine detents and and easy access bevel lever.

The best part about this miter saw is that its cordless, so I don't have to worry about plugging it in which for me is a BIG DEAL, because I am limited on outlets in my shop. Check out this quick setup video for my new Milwaukee Cordless Miter Saw.

Once I cut all of the wood down for the side table sides, I clamped the 2x2s together with my Kreg Right Angle Clamp and then attached the pieces together using a Kreg Jig on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

I made sure that the pocket holes were facing down on the bottom stretcher and facing up for the top stretcher so they would be hidden.

Step 2: Attach Side Table Sides 

Once the two side table sides were assembled, I attached the middle stretchers  using a Kreg Jig on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Again, making sure the pocket holes were facing up and down to remain hidden. 

Step 3: Attach V Braces

Now for the tricky part. In order to cut the V braces for the side table, I turned the bevel on my cordless Miter Saw to 21 degrees and then cut.

After cutting the V braces, I attached them to the assembled side table using my Milwaukee Brad Nailer. I nailed down the brad nails through the top and bottom into the v braces to secure it into place.

Step 4: Cut and Attach Side Table Top

Once the side table was built, I cut down the project panel with my Milwaukee Rear Handle Circular Saw. This saw generates the power of a 15A corded circular saw and delivers up to 570 cuts per charge, it also features an electric blade brake. This was the perfect tool to cut down my project panel.

I used a scrap board to make sure my circular Saw stayed straight and then just cut across the board and in 3 seconds, I had my side table top.

Step 5: Prep, Paint and Stain

Once the side table was all finished, I filled the nail holes with wood filler and then sanded her down.

I painted the bottom of the side table black and the top I stained with Varathane Stain and I absolutely love the color combination.

Now let's take another look at the DIY Side Table.

I hope you love it as much as I do and I can't wait to see you guys tackle it on your own.

"A modern touch on a Hall Tree Bench"

A few months back I built a cool hall tree bench and absolutely loved it, so I decided to create the same bench with a slightly different design. 

"This post is sponsored by the Home Depot"

I couldn't be more happy with the way this new design turned out, so of course I had to share all the details with you guys, but be sure to check out my other DIY hall tree bench when you get a chance.

This hall tree bench is the perfect combination of storage and style and will surely have all of your guests interested. So let's get into the details.

There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure.  

Dimensions 

Materials

• 10 - 2x2 @ 6ft
• 1 - 1x8 @ 6ft
• 1 - 1x10 @ 6ft 
• 2 - 1x2 @ 6ft
• 2 - Panel Boards - 17.5" x 39"
• 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
• 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
• 1 1/2" Brad Nails
• Coat Hooks
• Varathane Briarsmoke

Cut List

*See the detailed plans for the cut list

Tools Used

• Brad Nailer
• Kreg Jig
• Kreg Right Angle Clamp
• Drill and Impact Driver
• Miter Saw

Step 1: Assemble Hall Tree Bench Base

The first thing I did was assemble the bottom of the Hall Tree bench. I opted to use select pine for this build because it makes the build look so clean, it does drive up the price tag, but it's well worth it in my opinion.

I assembled the hall tree bench base using a Kreg Jig on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. 

I also used my Kreg Right Angle Clamp to assist with the bottom base. To attach the top and bottom shelf of the base, I used my Milwaukee Brad Nailer

Step 2: Assemble Hall Tree Top Frame

I then began assembling the hall tree bench top frame. Most of the outer frame was assembled using a Kreg Jig on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Once I assembled the main frame, I took the long stretcher piece and attached the coat hooks.

Before adding the hooks, I placed them onto the board and marked where the holes were and then drilled little pilot holes into the marked areas. This helps make attaching the coat hangers a lot easier.

After I attached the coat hanger piece to the assembled frame, I added in the decorative 1x2 trim using my Milwaukee Brad Nailer

This Milwaukee 18-Gauge Brad Nailer delivers clean and consistent nail holes in soft and hard woods. I really like that it feels light in hand and has zero ramp-up time.

It also features three interchangeable tips. I used 1 1/4" brad nails to attach it to the assembled frame and it worked great.

The assembled hall tree bench frame should look something like this when you're done.

Step 3: Attach the Base and Frame 

Once the two parts of the DIY Hall Tree Bench were assembled I attached them together.

I used a countersink bit to drill holes alongside the bottom 2x2's of the hall tree top and inserted 3" wood screws to attach the top of the hall tree to the bottom bench. I then filled the screw holes with wood filler.

and WAAA-LAH, there you have it, a DIY Entryway Hall Tree Bench.

I wasn't able to record this build, but I do have video for a very similar hall tree I made months back. This design is slightly different, but a lot of it is the same. Check out the video for help.

Let's take another look at the new design.

I really love the way this different design came out and I can't wait to see you guys tackle it to.

"A simplistic modern nightstand perfect for the bedroom"

The more I get into building, the more I'm discovering how much I really love the modern look, so I thought why not add some modern flare to my guest bedroom with this DIY Modern Nightstand.

The best part about this build is that it only cost me around $25; now that sounds like a win win. With a few dowels and a pine board, I was able to whip up this nightstand in under an hour. If you're a beginner DIYer, this is the perfect project for you!

"Bring your entryway to life with one of these amazing DIY consoles"

DIY consoles are always ones of my favorite things to build. They are usually quick and easy projects but bring so much style to your home. I have come across 10 amazing DIY consoles that I am sure you will love to.

Double V Console

This Double V Console is giving me all of the farmhouse vibes. This console is perfect for an entryway hallway. The double v look is one your guest won't forget. Check out the free plans here to create your own Double V console.

Industrial Console Cart

Looking for a console with an industrial feel? Check out this rustic Industrial Console Cart; an easy build you can knock out for a low price. The casters on this baby really makes it pop.

Rustic X Console

This Rustic X console is a quick and easy project that would make your entryway look great. With tons of room for storage, this is the perfect addition to your home.

DIY Modern Console Table

This Modern console table features a lovely design that will make your entryway pop. Check out the free plans here.

Ballard Designs Console Table

Anika from Anika's DIY Life knocked this DIY console out of the park. She built this Ballard Designs inspired DIY console table for a fraction of cost and I love the geometric feel of this console table. If you'd like to re-create this console, check out the tutorial here.

Modern Entry Table

Lindi and Russell transformed this Modern Entry Table for their entryway and I'm loving the black, sleek look. If you're not a builder, and do more repurposing, this is the project for you. Check out this console transformation here.

$20 Modern Farmhouse Console

Ana White always makes impressive furniture and this modern farmhouse console doesn't disappoint. The best part is that she made it with just $20. This is the perfect console to put behind your console.