Industrial Console Table

By Ashley Basnight
on May 12, 2017

Industrial Console Table

This was a totally unexpected build, but I just love how it turned out! I had some left over boards from a project and saw a similar console on Pinterest and just had to re-enact it. Luckily it only took me about 30 min. to build. Doesn't get any better than that! Perfect for the beginner DIYer.

(There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure)

Dimensions

Materials List

1 - 2x10 @ 8ft

1- 2x6 @ 8ft

1- 2x12 @ 10ft

Cut List

2 - 2x10 @ 29 1/4" (10" angle on both sides) cut like a rhombus

1 - 2x6 @ 32 1/2" (10" angle on both sides) cut like a trapezoid

1 - 2x12 @ 46" (10" angle on both sides) cut like a trapezoid

 

Step 1: Attach the middle 2x6 brace (32 1/2") to the side 2x10 (29 1/4") leg  using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. The 2x6 should be flush with the top of the side leg and inset 3 3/4" from the front.

I used my Ryobi 15 Amp 12 in. Sliding Miter Saw with Laser to cut the middle 2x6 brace which will be cut at an angle of 10 degrees using the bottom miter scale. The side 2x10 leg will be cut at an angle of 10 degrees by tilting the blade to the desired angle.

After cutting the wood I used my Kreg 3/4 HP Electric Foreman Pocket Hole Machine to make Kreg Holes in my 2x6 and 2x10 board. I put the fence setting in between 3/4" and 1 1/2". I'm not sure how that translates using a regular K4 machine, but I would think that using a 1 1/2" setting would be fine, but again I'm not sure.

I screwed 4 holes on the sides and 8 on the top for attaching the top later. I also put one pocket hole on the two side legs in the back for securing the top. (Picture Below)

Step 2: Attach the other side 2x10 (29 1/4") leg using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. The 2x6 should be flush with the top of the side leg and inset 3 3/4" from the front.

 

Step 3: Attach the console table top 2x12 (46") using the pre-drilled pocket holes and  2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. I placed my top so that it hangs 1 1/2" from the base. Table top angles will be cut by the tilting the blade.

 

and ladies and gentlemen! Your done! Time for a finish and some hardware.

 I have been seeing a couple people use Rust-Oleum's Varathane 1 qt. 3X Briarsmoke Premium Wood Stain and I have been dying to get my hands on it! I really love this color.

 Once I finished staining the console I added these industrial pieces I had laying around, I believe I got them from Lowes. Be creative!

Lets check it out again!

 

 Be sure to email or tag Handmade Haven on all your projects. Happy Building!

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Outdoor Convertible Bench/Coffee Table

By Ashley Basnight
on May 03, 2017
1 comment

Outdoor Convertible Bench/Coffee Table

For all who haven't heard there is an Instagram Builders Challenge hosted on Instagram every so often by the WoodGrainGirls called the IG Builders challenge.

I participated in it last year and it was super fun. Check out my post here to read about my IG entry in last years challenge.

So what exactly is the IG Builders challenge? There is one plan that is released on a particular date and whoever wants to participate has 3 weeks to complete the build. Modifications and creativity is highly encouraged so long as you can tell that the build was created from the original plan. This year the plan was created by Ana White and she was one of the main judges as well. Here is the plan for  the IGBC3 challenge.

There were some amazing builds that were presented and today I will be sharing the building plans for one of my favorite builds by Shawn (@industrial_vibe). It was no surprise that his build received 2nd runner up in the challenge. That's pretty good being that there were over 130 other builds!

Shawn made his outdoor bench so that it could be converted into a coffee table!. Now isn't that neat? Thanks to his cool design and my 3D plan magic. You can now build it too.

(There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure)

Dimensions:

Materials List:

8 - 2x4s @ 8ft

1 - 2x2s @ 8ft

2 - 1x8s @ 8ft

1 - 1x3 @ 8ft
    
Cut List:
4- 2x4s @ 41"
1 - 2x2   @ 41"
8 - 2x4s @ 16 1/2"
4 - 2x4s @ 15"
2 - 2x4s @ 5 1/2"
2 - 2x4s @ 15"
4 - 1x8s @ 48"
2 - 1x3s @ 48"
2 - 2x4s @ 9 1/2"
 

Step 1: Attach the top middle 2x4 brace (41") and the bottom middle 2x2 (41") brace to the side 2x4s (16 1/2") using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. There should be a 3/4" spacing at the top of the seat back. 

Step 2: Assemble the side arms by attaching the top side 2x4 brace (16 1/2") and the front side 2x4 (5 1/2") brace together using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. Repeat this step to create two side arms.

Step 3: Attach the bottom side 2x4 brace (15") to finish the side arm  using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. Repeat this step for both side arms.

Step 4: Attach the two side arms to the top bench back support using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue.

Step 5: Attach the two 1x8 (48") bench seat supports to the top bench using wood screws/brad nails and wood glue. The 1x6 boards will be flush with the outside of the bench.

 

Step 6: Attach the middle 1x3 (48") bench seat support to the top bench using wood screws/brad nails and wood glue. There should be a spacing of 1/4 of an inch in between boards.

 

 

Step 7: Assemble bottom half of the bench by attaching the top middle 2x4 brace (41") and the bottom middle 2x4 (41") brace to the side 2x4s (16 1/2") using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. The bottom 2x4 should be placed faced down instead of right side up for the bottom bench half. The top should be inset by 3/4" like the top bench.

 

Step 8 : Assemble the side arms for the bottom half of the bench by attaching the top side 2x4 brace (15") and the front side 2x4 (15") brace to the (17 1/4") 2x4 using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. Repeat this step to create two side arms.

 

Step 9: Attach the two side arms to the bottom bench back support using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue.

 

Step 10: Attach the (41") 2x4 to the existing bottom bench using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. The 41" 2x4 should be inset 1 1/2" from the outside of the bench.

 

Step 11: Attach the (9 1/2") 2x4 braces to the existing bottom bench using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue.

Step 12: Attach the (48") 1x8 boards to the bottom bench using wood screws and wood glue.

Step 13: Attach the (48") 1x3 board2 to the bottom bench using wood screws and wood glue. There should be a 1/4" spacing in between boards.

 Step 14: HERE IS MY SPECIAL CHALLENGE!

Use your creativity to create your own design for the backs of your convertible bench! You've got this!

Step 15: Add hardware to combine top and bottom bench together

 

Lets check out Shawn's build one last time!

 

 

Happy Building!

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Entry Way Bench

By Ashley Basnight
on May 03, 2017

Entry Way Bench

So excited to share the plans for my entry way bench today! Such a fun piece to put in your Entry Way. The best part is you can build this fun piece for only $30 in lumber. You may be able to build it for less if you have some scraps lying around.

I have a SUPER small entry way in my house, but I couldn't deal with it being empty. This little bench fits perfectly in my little entry way space.  

(There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure)

Dimensions

Materials List

2 - 1x6 @ 8ft

1 - 1x4 @ 6ft

2 - 2x4 @ 8ft

2 ½ Pocket Hole Screws

2" Screws

Cut List

2 – 2x4s @ 3ft

2 – 2x4s @ 17 5/8

4 – 2x4s @ 12 3/8"

2 – 1x4 @ 16 ¼"

1- 1x4 @ 26 5/8"

6 – 1x6 @ 28"

 

Step 1: Attach the (17 5/8") 2x4 leg to the (36") 2x4 leg by screwing the (12 3/8) 2x4 leg to them both using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. Repeat this step so that you have two legs.

Step 2: Attach the (12 3/8") bottom 2x4 braces to the existing legs using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 1 1/2" setting, with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach along with wood glue. Do this step for both legs.

 

Step 3: Add (28") 1x6 legs to the bottom of the chair legs using 2" wood screws and wood glue. The 1x6 should hang off the edge of the legs by a 1/2". The 1st 1x6 should be flush with the back. Leave a 1/8" spacing between boards.

Step 4: Add (28") 1x6 legs to the top of the chair legs using 2" wood screws and wood glue. The 1x6 should hang off the edge of the legs by a 1/2". Leave a 1/8" spacing between boards.

 

Step 5: Add (16 1/4") 1x4 side braces under the 1x6 boards into the 2x4 legs on both sides using 2" wood screws and wood glue

Step 6: Add (26 5/8") 1x4 front brace under the 1x6 boards into the 2x4 legs  using 2" wood screws and wood glue. 

 and there it goes. Easy entry bench for any spall space in your home.

 

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Radley Hidden Shoe Cabinet

By Ashley Basnight
on April 10, 2017
5 comments

Radley Hidden Shoe Cabinet

This post is sponsored by Build Something and Kreg Tool!

I am so excited to share today's build because it showcases one thing that I love A LOT. I mean love more than getting off work on a Friday love; that's right. A hidden shoe cabinet!!
 
Are you a crazy shoe lady that hoards pairs and pairs of shoes? Because I am. I have sooooo many shoes in my closet, and don't ask me how many of them I actually wear. Lets just say that ratio is definitely not what it should be, Ha!
  
There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure)
 
 
Because I am a shoe hoarder, and I know I'm not alone, I thought what better thing to build than a shoe storage. But I decided to go a step further and make it hidden in a buffet cabinet. Its like Heaven on Earth! This baby holds 16 pairs of shoes; my closet is glad to have it's space back.
 
 
The best part is I have partnered with Build Something , Kreg's DIY project plan site, to bring you the free plans! But before you head over check out some building tips and my process of building this unique cabinet.
 
 
Honestly I love any project that lets me use my new Kreg DB210 Foreman Pocket-Hole Machine, Blue I love that thing. This thing makes me feel like a spoiled child. Its amazing how fast I can spit out those pocket holes; but I don't want my Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System to get jealous so I let it be a part of the party too. Both tools are great and definitely get the job done!
 
 
I think its safe to say that pocket holes just makes life easier! I don't think there is one build that I haven't used pocket holes on. It makes assembly easy and clean.
If you're wanting to take your building to the next level this is a tool to have in your arsenal.
 
This was such a fun build! As you can see halfway through the build I was already ready to fill this cabinet with my shoes. Lets just say my closet has been a little crowded!
When choosing the measurements for my drawers I made them based on my shoe size and heels height, so feel free to customize the pull-out shelves to fit your shoes, purses, etc.
 
 
I was a little nervous about these pull out drawers because it was my first time using metal drawer slides, but of course Kreg comes to the rescue once again with these awesome Kreg Tool Company KHI-SLIDE Drawer Slide Jig. Honestly, installing the drawer slides were way easier than I anticipated thanks to this drawer slide jig.  
 
 
Once the cabinet was all built I used DAP Wood Filler to fill all the holes. I use a putty knife (sometimes my fingers) to apply it to the holes and any openings I want filled. Highly recommend this stuff. It is my go to.
 
For the Finish, I used a custom stain that is one of my favorites. The stain is a mixture of Minwax Classic Grey and Minwax Dark Walnut. I used about 60% of this larger quart can in Classsic Grey and then dumbed the smaller can of Dark Walnut into the Classic grey, mixed it together and WAAA-LAAAh- Vintage Grey, or atleast that's what I call it! :)
 
Now, head on over to Build Something for the FREE PLANS!


 
and don't forget to tag me in your cabinet build!!

Handmade Corbel using Ryobi Bandsaw

By Ashley Basnight
on April 07, 2017
16 comments

Handmade Corbel using Ryobi Bandsaw

I have been drooling over band saws since I started this DIY journey, and luckily some good friends over at Ryobi sent me this cool Ryobi 2.5-AMP Band Saw to play with.

I have seen a lot of talk and posts about corbels and thought it would be the perfect starter project for my new band saw.

I have a 14" Rikon bandsaw and I know what you're thinking; "What do you need with a little 9" inch bandsaw when you have a massive Rikon?" (I have been asked) Well although the Rikon 14" is an awesome bandsaw, I am finding that it is actually easier to do smaller projects on the Ryobi bandsaw; mainly because its easier to maneuver smaller wood because of the size. So if you are a DIYer who loves to make smaller projects such as this one. This Ryobi 2.5 Amp 9 in. Band Saw is definitely the way to go!

(There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure)

Now lets get to it!

First I started of with a cut down 1 x 12 board.

I made this template for anyone who isn't confident in their scribble skills.

After tracing the template on the 1x12 board, I began cutting the outside pieces for the corbel.

Don't feel like you have to try and cut on the template line in one straight pass, you don't want to bend the blade too much;make sure you make relief cuts. Here's a picture of how I made my cuts.

I made sure not to force the bandsaw when making my cuts, I curved around the sharp corners. Then I went back and cut the sharp corners. It makes life much easier and you don't risk the blade popping off. (Speaking from experience)

Once I finished cutting the two outer pieces I cut the inside piece. Trace your pattern or use the template pattern provided and cut away.

The middle piece should be about an inch shorter than the two outer pieces to give it a nice decorative look.

 

After cutting out the pieces I used my Corner Cat Sander RYOBI sent me to sand this baby down. And then glued the 3 pieces together with some good ole Gorilla Glue and secured using my Ryobi Brad nailer with some finish nails.

 After gluing and nailing  the 3 pieces together I added 1 inch pieces to both the top and bottom on both sides of the corbel to finish the look, securing them with both glue and finish nails.

 

I used dap wood filler to fill in the holes. It is my go to! Definitely check it out! P.S don't use a dark green sharpie to make your lines haha luckily im painting over it!

 Now for the finish. First I stained the corbel with Minwax Jacobean. When your gluing your corbel make sure you wipe off the glue well or else you will be able to tell when you stain. haha OOPs. I let that dry for the day..

 Once the stain was dry I sprayed over it with RUST-OLEUM Satin Paint and Primer, this stuff dries pretty quickly. Once dry I hand sanded the corbel with 220-grit sand paper to give it a antique look and that completes it! This was a super quick and easy project!

Don't forget to enter your projects on RYOBI Nation in Ryobi's contests for a chance to win $500 in power tools!

Be sure to tag me @smashingdiy on Insta in your own corbel creations.

Happy DIYing

Spring is Blooming with JORD

By Ashley Basnight
on February 22, 2017
1 comment

Spring is Blooming with JORD

Spring can sometimes offer some very challenging wardrobe decisions. One day it’s hot, one day it’s cold, rainy, wet, dry hot, you name it. Spring brings it all. That's why I personally love my new JORD piece, whether I'm bundled up on a cold rainy day, or sporting my spring wear for the warmer days, my JORD timepiece is the perfect match for spring!
 
JORD has so many lovely timepieces on their site, (woodwatches.com) and I was gifted with the Frankie Series (Zebrawood and Navy) women's watch.  I personally love the Frankie Series because of the big face. I always gravitate to bigger watches, Go Big or Go Home, right? I also love the Zebrawood, the pattern  really makes it a unique watch.
Now, let’s talk about this box. When I purchase a watch, other than how it looks, I always want to know how the box is packaged. I believe there are two types of people in this world, ones that throw their watches on the dresser, and ones that like to see theirs displayed! All my timepieces are lined up on my dresser in their original case, so I am definitely a fan of the box! It even has a nice little drawer at the bottom that holds a Humidity Pack, for those who are concerned with the conditions of having the watch in the box. The watch also comes with a custom cleaning oil specifically for cleaning the wood watch. Which to me was a nice additive to this cool watch.
If you love this watch, today is your lucky day!
I am partnering with JORD to giveaway a $100 code to one lucky winner towards a JORD Wood Watch, and all other entrants will receive $25 towards a watch once the contest ends. Either way, if you enter you will walk away with something.

ENTER GIVEAWAY HERE

The Giveaway will run until March 26th, 2017
Wooden Wristwatch

Office Nook Reveal

By Ashley Basnight
on February 17, 2017

Office Nook Reveal

I was fortunate enough to be chosen to be one of Weaber Lumber's Winter Brand Reps and they sent over these lovely weathered wall boards for me to use!
Before I received them I already knew I wanted to use them in my office nook. It was definitely dull, to say the least. Just look at it.
These wall boards were super simple to put up. I only needed three essential tools/materials to put up the wall.
2. Liquid Finish Nails/Caulk Gun
I used Mirror, Marble & Granite on the first half of my project because I had some leftover from a previous project, but if your buying something new I would suggest getting "Liquid Nails," good stuff!
The wall boards come ready out of the box, and each box covers 10 sq. ft. I used about 4 boxes of wall boards to cover my office nook wall.
Before starting your pallet wall, be sure to paint the wall black (or dark color) for small spaces between your boards. If you don't you will regret it!
After the wall is painted, fit and cut your wall board to size, apply some liquid nails to the back of your wall board and  nail it in place, its just that easy!
This project took about 2 1/2 hours (with breaks in between), so if your wondering if this is a project you can tackle, you can for sure!!
The Weaber Lumber wall boards are sole exclusively at Home Depot. If you'd like to purchase some check out this link and be sure to check out WEABER LUMBER's site HERE!
and finally lets check out the final office nook..
Office Nook Complete.
Today Only Savings from The Home Depot! While Supp

Roman Numeral Clock Tutorial

By Ashley Basnight
on November 30, 2016
9 comments

Roman Numeral Clock Tutorial

I see these Rustic Clocks everywhere and I just LOVE them....so I wanted to come up with this How-To for anyone to be able create one easily! Here goes..

 (There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure)

 
I started off with this 24" round. For all you Non-woodworkers, Home Depot has pre-made wooden rounds in all different sizes. I used 24" for my clock but you can choose which ever size you'd like.
I started off painting my round with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (Pure White) ; chalk paint can be a little expensive so you can opt to use a cheaper paint, or use spray paint. I like using Chalk paint because the dry time is SUPER FAST!

After the paint was dry, I applied the Roman Numeral Sticker Decal ( my fav part)

Amazon sells this Roman Numeral Sticker Decal in 24" (it comes in other sizes too) that is perfect for a clock stencil.Wallpressions sells it for $9.99

 

WallSlicks sells it in other sizes but their 24" is higher.

 It comes rolled up so I used a picture frame and pot to flatten it out.

The sticker comes with instructions...but you peel the back side off. Flip it and press the letters into the round.

Make sure you place the stickers where you want them before pressing down on the decal.

I used a scrap wooden block to make sure the letters would stick to the wood. A credit card would work GREAT for this too.

After pressing the decal down, I removed the top layer of the decal. Make sure to lift slowly to ensure the stickers stay placed on the wood.

I added some small stickers I had laying around from Walmart to give the clock some extra PIZAZZ!! I pressed those down as well.

Once the Stickers and decal was placed I started painting over it! I used Annie Sloans Chalk Paint in Aubbuson Blue.

I painted over the whole round and then let it sit to dry!

Once it was dry I started peeling the stickers! Another FUN part! I used a small nail to help lift the edges of the sticker, but be careful not to scratch the wood! After peeling I sealed it with Annie Sloan's Clear and Dark Wax and...

WAAAAA-LAAAAAAHHHH!!! CLOCK WAS DONE!!

Feel free to add clock hands or put your own flavor on it! I would love to see your go at this project. Tag or email me your clocks you make using this tutorial!!!

HAPPY CLOCKING!!

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IG Builders Challenge

By Ashley Basnight
on November 02, 2016

IG Builders Challenge

While on Instagram I came across an IG Builders Challenge hosted by WoodGrainGirls. Everyone signed up beforehand without knowing what the build would be and plans were released soon after. We all had 2 weeks to build and I must say this may be one of my favorite builds to date….HANDS DOWN!!
Here is the table they realeased!!!
You can get the original plans on the SHANTY 2 CHIC website, and I will take you through what I did to give it some PAZAAAAZZ!! I had planned on taking a lot more photos to provide more detail on the build but with only 2 weeks and a full time job I just didn't have the time...I hope this still helps! :)
 In the original plans, they ripped their boards, but I did not! So don’t FRET, there is a work around!!
To start, I joined my 2x6 boards together with glue and screws. I opted to use regular 3” screws because I knew the moulding around the legs would cover it. So I used 4 screws per table leg. Then I let it dry overnight, as instructed in the Shanty 2 Chic plans.
After the legs were dry I started on building up the legs…
Adding the trim to the legs is definitely a measure and cut as you go…I used 1x6x8 trim, 1x3x8 trim and 2 5/8 case moulding.
First I applied the 1x6 trim; Put the board up to the leg, measure, cut and attach the first layer of trim with wood glue and a brad nailer using 2” nails. Be mindful of where you are putting the nail holes. I put more nails where I knew the 1x3 trim would cover it. Make sure to add the trim to both smaller sides first then the longer sides second. Add the remaining pieces of the 1x6 trim and flip it upside down and do the same with the top.
Once I did this on all four legs, I started adding the 1x3 trim….
I only put 1x3 trim on the bottom legs.
NOTE: Only put 1x3 trim on 3 sides…the side that will connect to the 4x4 should be left with just the 1x6 moulding.
After the 1x3 trim was complete I connected the legs to the 4x4s and then added the 2x4s to the top of the base.
Once the base was assembled I added the 2x6 runners and started working away on the legs again!
Now here is where it gets a little tricky!
On the leg side that has the 4x4 attached, I put 1x3 trim on both sides and then added a little tiny piece under the 4x4…I soon learned that it was better to just jigsaw out the square from a 1x3, to make for a cleaner look.
After the 1x3 trim is complete, I started adding the case moulding.
I started by making the first cut on the case moulding by swinging the bottom arm of my Miter saw to the left 45 degrees, made my cut and then placed it against the legs above the 1x3 trim and measured my next cut. I then swung the bottom arm of my miter saw to the right at 45 degrees and made my second cut. I did this for each leg until the trim was wrapped all the way around.
After the case moulding was finished I started attaching the ½” moulding on top of the 1x6 moulding.
Because I didn’t rip the boards, I only needed 7 boards for the table top middle. So I only needed 9 total 2x6x8 instead of 10.
I also wanted to give my tabletop a more classy look, so I added 2-5/8 case moulding on the longer sides and 1x3 moulding on the ends. I applied these using glue and my RYOBI brad nailer.
For the finish, I first applied wood conditioner to the table top after sanding it down really well.
Part of me just wanted to go with the wood conditioner look haha but I was committed at this point to my original idea! Next Time!
For the stain I mixed up three Minwax stains, I don’t have the exact amounts because I was just playing around with it but the three stains I used were Classic Gray, Provincial, and Dark Walnut. This was my 1st time mixing stain and it was pretty fun!!!! Happy Mixing! After the stain dried I used 3 coats of Polycrylic! This stuff is good!!! A little more expensive, but good stuff!
Now let’s take a look at the finished product!!

I think I just might be building one for myself!!! Thanks for reading!!!!

Round Pedestal Dining Table

By Ashley Basnight
on October 13, 2016
2 comments

Round Pedestal Dining Table

Don’t you just LOVE a trendy dining table!? I saw this table online on the Shanty-2-Chic website and immediately knew I wanted to build this next!! Here is the pic that caught my eye!

image

So BEAUTIFUL!!I followed the plans on their site… And didn’t have many problems!

Lets take a look at my journey of building this table!

There are some affiliate links in this post, meaning I get a small commission if you purchase through these links, at no cost to you. Click Here to read my full disclosure)

image.jpeg

Tip: Make sure all of your legs are nailed in evenly so your bottom is nice and solid!

image

Tip: If your staining your project, be mindful of where you place your nail holes!

I used my Ryobi Cordless BRAD NAILER 18GA Model P320 [BASE TOOL ONLY] 18V Battery/Charger Not-Included to nail my pedestal and it is by far one of my favorite Ryobi tools. I use it on almost every project I do.

I actually won this amongst other tools in a contest on Ryobi Nation!

Every month they have chances for 3 winners to win $500 in power tools. All you have to do is upload a project you've built/made. Its just that simple! Here are the tools I received from winning. Awesome Right?

Be sure to go check it out at Ryobi Nation!

I joined the tabletop together using a Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System on a 3/4" setting, Gorilla Wood Glue, 18 oz. and 1 1/4" pocket screws and then cut it out with my Ryobi P523 Cordless 18V One Plus Lithium-Ion Orbital Jig Saw Battery and Charger Not Included.

image.jpeg

This was my finished base for the round table, I was so proud of myself for this one.

After completing my build I used Dap 21506 Plastic Wood Filler, 16-Ounce to fill the nail holes and any other openings I wanted to close up.

image.jpeg

For the finish I used:

Annie Sloans Chalk Paint in Old Ochre

Old Masters – Walnut

Old Masters Clear Finish

I painted the base first with the chalk paint and let it dry. I love chalk paint because it dries extremely fast.

 Then wiped the walnut gel stain over top of it like I normally apply stain.

and here she is!!

Here is the same build using Minwax Jacobean!

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Welcome to Handmade Haven

Hi, I'm Ashley and I am a engineer by day and a woodworking/DIY machine by night. I have a new found love for DIY and woodworking and I look forward to sharing my journey with you! Click my photo to learn more!

From the Blog

Ryobi 18V ONE+ Cordless Brushless Belt Sander Tool Review

Ryobi 18V ONE+ Cordless Brushless Belt Sander Tool Review

May 23, 2017

This review is sponsored by the Home Depot as a part of The Home Depot's Pro-Spective Campaign. There are some affiliate links...

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Ryobi Cordless 18V ONE+ Palm Router Tool Review

Ryobi Cordless 18V ONE+ Palm Router Tool Review

May 11, 2017

This review is sponsored by the Home Depot as a part of The Home Depot's Pro-Spective Campaign.  I was chosen along...

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From the Blog

Industrial Console Table

Industrial Console Table

May 12, 2017

This was a totally unexpected build, but I just love how it turned out! I had some left over boards...

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Outdoor Convertible Bench/Coffee Table

Outdoor Convertible Bench/Coffee Table

May 03, 2017

For all who haven't heard there is an Instagram Builders Challenge hosted on Instagram every so often by the WoodGrainGirls called the IG...

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Entry Way Bench

Entry Way Bench

May 03, 2017

So excited to share the plans for my entry way bench today! Such a fun piece to put in your...

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